framing a wooden puzzle with no frame

[jon buck]

Not to sure how to do this. A customer has just dropped off a wooden puzzle to frame. Not a problem there.

However the issue is, the picture on the puzzle is of her wedding and all the guests have signed said puzzle.

signatures are right up to the edge of the puzzle , so when a frame is put around the puzzle I then lose parts of the signatures.

Customer is happy just to have puzzle glazed with no frame , which will solve the problem.

But not sure how to do it. Would be grateful for advice.

Jon

[huntvambo]

I'd put the puzzle onto to an adhesive board, the board being larger than the puzzle, and then use a suitable slip around the edge of the puzzle so you get the full image with signatures cut the board back to the outer edge of the slip and then frame as normal.

Hope that makes sense

Paul

[jon buck]

Thanks very much Huntvambo, like they say easy when you know.

Jon

[prospero]

I usually pre-mount drymount film, slightly smaller than the puzzle, onto a coloured board about 2" bigger all round. Leave the release paper on the upside. Then, when it'd cooled, peel off the release paper and slide the puzzle onto the board and jiggle it a bit until it's roughly central and the side are all straight and no film showing at the edges. Drymount film is slightly tacky, so it will not slide about. Pop it back it the press for a short squeeze and then when that stage has cooled, trim the board to equalise the borders.

[Nigel Nobody]

Customer is happy just to have puzzle glazed with no frame , which will solve the problem.

This customer has obviously mistaken you for Harry Potter!

Down here we have 'Clip Frames' (frameless) that are a piece of glass and a piece of backing (wood product, so very acidic) and some metal clips to hold the components together. Invariably the glass breaks where the clips apply pressure on it, but they are a cheap way to destroy photos, which either stick to the glass or get damaged by broken glass.

As this is something that the couple wish to keep for a long long time, I suggest you use your powers of persuasion to encourage them to have some sort of spacer between the puzzle surface and the glass and use a frame. (Prospero's method would be very approriate.)
You could mount it to a piece of conservation quality matboard and 'float it on another piece of conservation quality matboard, leaving some of that showing around the edge of the puzzle. Use a spacer under the glass that's thick enough to keep the glass from touching the puzzle.

[Roboframer]

I assume the puzzle is already stuck to something, if so then I don't think I'd have a problem sticking that something to something else as the chances are the actual pieces are superglued or something.

But I'd not use any heat, I'd wet mount it, probably with wheat starch paste, it's cheap as chips.

The pieces could be fixed with something else though, like a self-adhesive board which will probbaly give up over time, so, depending on size, encapsulation could be a solution.

[jon buck]

Thanks again

Jon

[prospero]

Mad Idea.

Make a panel with material like you would use for chevron boards and stick velro hook dots to each piece.....


Maybe not.

[framemaker]

I think the float mounting method already mentioned by a few others is the way I would go. Mount it on a piece of mountboard using whichever method you are happy with, (adhesive board, dry mount film, Evacon R, wheat starch, etc. etc.) then use a frame and spacer.

Or if the customer has specifically asked for a minimal look with no frame at all, then a perspex box frame would allow you to float mount it and also have some space between the puzzle and glazing. Not cheap and good suppliers are few and far between, but its a solution, and it can look pretty good.

hope its clear from my pictures what I mean

the backing subframe on the perspex box frame can be made from various substrates. I think another perspex folded frame in white looks really good.

[Nigel Nobody]

Richard,
Fantastic illustrations. The first one is what I clumsily tried to explain in words!

(What software do you use for those?)

[framemaker]

Thanks Ormond,
The program is called Smartdraw, I originally got it for designing a floor plan and workshop layout and I also intended to do some images showing frame package components (like the ones above) to use on my website, but I have not got round to putting them on the site yet. I bought it a couple of years ago, on 'special offer' at about £70 which is still a bit pricey I think, but I have still found it useful.

I am trying to get the hang of Google sketch up at the moment as I want to design some storage racking for frames and completed jobs. But to be honest I am not finding it easy to use!

Richard

[Nigel Nobody]

Thanks Richard.
I think it's probably possible to use Google Sketch to do similar illustrations, but I haven't played around with it enough yet. I don't know whether textures such as the wood one you used is possible in Google Sketch. I need to check it out a little more someday.

[Not your average framer]

I have block mounted several jigsaw puzzles directly onto MDF and it's a very simple and easy process.

I apply several coats of the thicker grade of PVA glue onto the MDF with a paint roller allowing time for the previous coat to dry before applying another. I have a local supplier who will supply the MDF cut to size.

Then I lay the jigsaw in position and place the whole thing into the dry mounting press and bond the whole thing together. Finally I finish it all with a couple of coats of matt acrylic varnish.

The varnish I use is from Jacksons Art Supplies and it is their own product, which is much cheaper than the other types in their catalogue.