Big Wash line

[Roboframer]

Almost 40" long, the whole thing was to match a job made eleswhere - (but about half the size) deep wrapped bevel, a tiny sliver of thin gold card (I used gold mount board, reverse bevelled) then the wash line mount.

big washline 001.JPG

I marked the lines with my CMC embossing head but set to emboss very lightly. No corner dots or pin holes and when the embossed lines are wetted, they disappear. The battery is there because my camera wouldn't focus on the lines alone on macro.

big washline 004.JPG

Outer line is two different coloured lines.

big washline 005.JPG

Made myself a sample while I was at it - had to buy the brush special, 1" wide sable/ox, holds loads of water. £28.50 from Simons.

big washline 003.JPG

[prospero]

Suberb Job John. You must have nerves of steel. Must admit I would have wimped out at doing the wet wash and reached for the powders.

[Graysalchemy]

That looks good prospero. I haven't done wash lines for years, I would never of thought of using a debossed line as a guide, great idea.

After your a big one for christmas I have just had a go at making a hand finished frame waiting for the guilt to dry.

Cheers

AG

[prospero]

Well thanks for the praise AG. It's Robo's mount though.

[Graysalchemy]

I get confused it must be the age or the copydex fumes

Anyway

That looks good Robo. I haven't done wash lines for years, I would never of thought of using a debossed line as a guide, great idea.

[Roboframer]

I prefer a panel of colour that goes up to the aperture as opposed to a band of colour half an inch (or whatever) away from it.

If you don't want any colour on the bevel (you may do, but there's a danger of it seeping under the surface paper) all you have to do is cut an aperture smaller than you need, then paint your panel and when dry, cut through it to the correct aperture size.

[markw]

Fantastic job John. I like the way you have used the embossing head. self healing marking out. State of the art meets traditional hand finishing technique.

Whenever I try and do something like this either - the phone rings - or a customer comes in at the most critical moment. I have this habit of holding my breath as i flood in the wash colour - not sure I could hold my breath long enough for 40".

[bookmark]

Hi Robbo, great peice of work. May I ask what board have you used, and what is the core. Also for a piece that long have you used a bar to run the brush along, hope the last question makes sense I am just wondering how you keep the brush at the right angle for a piece so long. Washlines add depth, and should be seen more often.

[Roboframer]

Thanks,

The board is Arqadia whitecore conservation 'Maize' and the wash was applied freehand, you just have to rest your forearm and move your whole arm without moving your wrist, also you have to keep an even pressure to splay the brush to the correct width for the whole stroke.

With this one I had to take a side step or two to the right as I was doing all that!

[markw]

John obviously has a good steady hand and can run his brush level forever. For those of us who cant then a technique used by signwriters works for me - any straight edge that can be held at an angle so that the edge of the brush handle runs along the straight edge - aids the straightness of the fill - I often just use a piece of wide moulding as the edge is being used to steady the hand - not to provide a guide.

Robo's skill only goes to emphasise that practice makes perfect - you have to gain this skill by practice - and maintain and improve your ability by practice.

[prospero]

I use a Maped 1200mm straightedge for ruling lines. It's nice because it has 'tramlines' along the top that tend to guide your hand along the path. With long lines you have to develop the stance. Stand in the middle, legs apart and lean one way to start the line and gradually shift your weight to the other leg. Otherwise you can overeach yourself and fall over.

[markw]

I thought I fell over because I hadn't breathed. I shall assume the stance and try not to fall over.

[AllFramed]

That looks a lovely piece of work. Excuse my ignorance all, but what tools and inks would you recommend for the lines?

Thanks
Tim

[Roboframer]

I use a Maped straight edge and this ruling pen with watercolour for a light mount like this and acrylics for light colour on dark mounts.

For gold lines I use acrylic gloss medium or 'wundasize' (with a drop of paint added so's I can see it) and stick gold foil or real gold leaf on to that. Not keen on gold paints, felt pens or any sort of ink.

[Roboframer]

Painted inlays are an easy way to do a panel of colour, here's a link, sorry the relevant photo has gone, but there's a description and more on this subject anyway. I'll see if I can find the photo, it's not on this computer.

Did I mention I Lerve doing this stuff? Materials cost nothing, equipment not much more and lasts forever (CMC excepted of course, but that just made it faster/more accurate), it's very satisfying - and I've seen quite decent watercolours costing less than I'd charge for putting a washline mount like this (one panel, 3 lines) around them!

[AllFramed]

Thanks for the reply and links. I have previously used a Pilot gold pen but not very happy with the results. Next time I'm at Lion I will pick up a pen.

Thanks
Tim

[prospero]

Hi Tim. Those pens need a bit of breaking in. So don't be put off if you can't steer a brand new one. And don't be too fussy about cleaning the inside of the blades. They hold onto the ink/paint better with a thin dried film on the inside.

I do use the Pilot pens now and then and I agree they can be a PITA, but you can get good results once you learn their habits....

[markw]

The pilot pens work well with cmc pen heads - maybe its the consistent speed - but you get a fairly good result - especially on dark coloured boards.