Morso query

[CalicoFraming]

Hi all,

This is probably a daft question, but here goes.

I've got a v wide, reverse moulding which is a couple of centimetres deep on the far edge. So I find 3/4 way through the cut that the blades no longer clear the moulding, or in other words, the moulding is too fat to fit under the blades. Can anyone tell me what to do in this situation?

Thanks
Calico

[stcstc]

are your blades all the way up

[Jonny2morsos]

You can adjust "the throw" on your blades using the rod located at the back. You need to undo the top nut and I forget whether it goes up or down but experimentation will tell you.

Keep going until you clear the top of the moulding but if it is too deep it wont clear at the back of the moulding when you come to complete the cut. Also if you have an old set of blades that have been ground down many times there will not be enough depth to cut all the way.

Had this problem a while ago and I had to cut the front of the moulding make the adjustment and cut the back. Two cuts on each length and four sides meant a lot of wasted time!

[CalicoFraming]

ok, thanks guys - will play around with the rod at the back, see if that does it. Otherwise will just have to avoid this kind of profile I guess

[Roboframer]

A couple of centimetres shouldn't cause this, especially only three quarters of the way through the cut.

Is the foot pedal at it's maximum travel/height? There's a nut in one of the front grooves, your fence adjustment handles/spanners fit it. Undo it, push it up to the top and tighten it.

[Steve N]

I've had the same problem, twice over the last couple of weeks with Simons moulding 9000-0002 page 128 of the current catalogue, as I have some old blades that have been sharpened a lot, they are a bit short, so I did as Robo said, in fact I had to take the adjustment nut right off to get the required clearance to cut this moulding, only take a couple of minutes to do. I used my knee to hold up the pedal while I moved the blades in and out while cutting.

Steve

[prospero]

I almost never have the pedal adjustment nut on the machine. Like Steve I push the pedal right to the top. I hook my toes under the pedal.

The only problem with adjusting the nut on the tie-bar is that if you get it too high the blades don't cut all the way down.

There is a sneaky way to cut BIG mouldings up to 4.25" wide and it also works with high-fronted profiles. It's strictly a push-has-come-to-shove method as it's a PITA to do. Take out the rebate supports. On a big chunky moulding you can generally get away with not having them. The other PITA factor is that you can't use the measuring scale. Cut the left mitre in as far as you can, and then cut along the already cut face until you have completed the cut. If you hold the moulding tight against the blade you don't get 'tramlines'.
Now the tricky bit. Calculate the length of the rail to the sight edge and measure and mark this measurement along the sight edge. Make the first cut with the blades right back to this mark. Then start taking nibbles going left. Move the blades in as far as they will go. Then it's just a question of cutting along the face of the first cut, going sideways to clear the left side as you go.

Sounds tedious, and it is. But it does work. The hard part is cutting another rail exactly the same length as the first.


** Yes AG. It is easier with a saw, but I ain't got one.

[Jonny2morsos]

Hi all,

Can anyone tell me what to do in this situation?

Thanks
Calico

Is it a moulding that is available on chop service? Chop can be really useful on wide mouldings especialy as sod's law says the job will want a length and a little bit. I have a pile of part lengths gathering dust in the corner to prove it. I remain hoeful that someone will bring in a pile of small oil paintings to use the up.

[prospero]

I little oil paintings.

[CalicoFraming]

thanks for all the replies - chop sounds like the least aggravation!
Calico