Fillets- tips and advice welcome.

[kev@frames]

after fifteen years in the business, I am quite surprised to find myself saying we dont do fillets! But lately I ve been admiring some of the fillets posted in pics on this forum, and having discovered a few lengths of various fillet on a shelf in the workshop (obviously ordered or delivered some time in the dark past by mistake) I reckon its time to have a look into a new skill and another option to offer our customers.

So, fillet experts: what exactly is the step by step procedure for producing a good filleting job.

[Lemon_Drop]

Hi Kev, its something I put off doing also, thinking that it would be alot of trouble getting the fillets perfect, but when they are done right the effect is worth it. Lots of moulding come with their own fillets now even. To be honest, im my case im not a expert compared to most of the people here, but I can make fillets as good as anyone, but I could not do it perfectly without Fletcher's FilletMaster. and anything less than perfect in my case wont do. Some here dont need to use it, and can turn out very good fillets, some are like me also I suppose, well the FilletMaster is big in America, do a search on the Grumble for it. I just cut the mount opening with a reverse bevel, and use the FilletMaster to transfer the mount opening measurement to my morso, and chop the length of fillet, the underpin using 3mm wedges, just like a normal frame, most of the fillets will take a 3mm wedge, at least the ones I use do, it makes it easier. Follow th link to the Fletcher site a watch the video, its as easy as that guy doing the demo, http://www.fletcher-terry.com/framing/f ... video.html
Other people can do it with out the FilletMaster, and maybe they will tell you how they do it.

[Roboframer]

Well first of all slice from the neck to the tail along the belly ....

Oh - not mackerel!

Hee hee!

I sell a lot of fillets (slips) A L-L-L-O-O-O-O-O-O-O-T-T-T-T-T

We are talking mount fillets aren't we?

Well, first of all search for 'filletmaster' here and watch the demo - anyone wishing to start on mount slips needs one of these - me? Set in my ways and those ways cannot be described - only demo'd

You tell me how to fasten a bow tie, or a single sheet bend and I'll tell you how to fit a slip!

[kev@frames]

Yeah, ive been putting it off fifteen years....

apparently its a video telling one how to fillet a rabbit on a mat
Two cultures separated by a common language.


well i guess Tom or Al in the workshops would run a sweepstake on who is going to be first to either cut a filletmaster in half, or trash a set of morso blades on one.
I have a new power morso coming, wondering how the filletmaster would get along with that? Not too sure whether a fillet master will help or not.

Meanwhile one question: (i know this sounds dumb) i presume its a reverse bevel one cuts?

Am I right in thinking there is then a lump of fillet behind the mount? so does one cut another mount to protect the artwork from the fillet? or space that off the artwork?

I can see some very cool ideas coming out of this in box frames etc when I let the lads in the workshop practice. But I have not got the faintest idea where to look for step-by-step instructions to pass on to them on "how to do it proper" lol.

Robo, yes we are talking about a mount fillet! but that just reminded me that a friend of mine is an ex fishmonger, now a framer in his retirement, so I'll remind him about the forum!

[Roboframer]

No no, I meant as opposed to frame fillet/slip.

Yes reverse bevels are recommended to allow the slip to butt right up to the aperture.

They also need to be made flush at the back, Albor mountboard slips only need one thickness of mountboard, most others need 3 or 5mm foamboard or a build - up of mountboard.

Obviously if artwork is of any value you don't wanna go putting wood next to it, even if it is sealed, it needs spacing away, at least half an inch is recommended, but I don't remember where I heard that, could be more, could be less - half inch is what I use with the slip between a double mount, that's not half an inch above, it's half an inch away.

[Not your average framer]

Has anyone any experience of the reverse bevel stop attachment for the keencut ultimat. I've often wondered if it would be useful to get one.

[patrickleeland]

Robo do you use glue, atg, or the Lineco Metal tape for doing your fillets? There are varying opinions on this. I tend to go with the Lineco on Archival work that is not of hgh value. If it is run on the mill poster art, then I may use glue and ATG-1/4 inch or 4mm (iam trying here???) high tact.


PL

[Roboframer]

Well, if it's a fillet between a double mount (mat) and at least half an inch away from the aperture, it's less important.

But I rarely use ATG and when I do it's an 'acid free' one I get from a scrapbooking supplier.

What I generally do is this, cut fillets, fit into aperture unfixed, make flush with mountboard or foamcore and then pull the fillets tight against the flush-making strips and tape them across the back with P90.

Not so good for larger fillets where I'll use ATG and P90 across the back as well.

With the ATG, rather than prat about trying to roll it on as close to the opening as poss, risking it going on to the bevel, I either put it on first and cut through it, or put the fall out back in and ATG over that, score and remove fall out.

[kev@frames]

Cheers Robo thats very helpful.

we also use slip between double mounts, particularly on pastels etc if we can convince the customer of the benefit, but generally lay it "flat" for a 6mm or 5mm spacing, which gives it around 8-9mm from the artwork to the glass. Somewhere I recall hearing 3mm mentioned as recommended for pastels, but I cant recall where it was now.

I do happen to have a load of fillet tape, acid free (5mm) which we often use instead of ATG, or between bigger cigarette card mounts (back and fronts) so that will be handy.

As there are 3 of us in the workshops it just occurred to me that cutting fillet on the morso might get in the way of someone elses work, but I have seen some wee "artmac" or similar type of mini mitre cutters that we could dedicate to the job if one comes up cheap.

Maybe I have jost got "fillet" in my head as a project, and im bored with "jobing" jobs -and the customers wont even want it, but I guess there is only one way to find out.

anyone got any pics of their fillet jobs, just out of interest?

[Merlin]

Hi Kev
Yes, somewhere on here I have posted a pic of the Policemans lot.
A small silver fillet in the centre cutout

Good to talk the other day

[kev@frames]

thanks John I remember admiring that one when you posted it. I'll have a look.

[Roboframer]

These are all the same type of slip - Albor, but on the bottom one I have also used the same slip for a frame sight edge.

Think I've posted some of these here before.

[kev@frames]

thanks, great pics, and a nice effect.
Will be cracking on learning how to fillet now!

[WelshFramer]

I see that Lion have reduced the price of the Fillet Master to under £100 even though their website still has it at the old price.

[Bill Henry]

I have to echo others in praise of the FilletMaster. It is a bit pricey, but it will pay for itself very quickly.

Before I got one, I used to dread trying to cut those stupid interior miters. With the FilletMaster, once you’ve got it calibrated, you will get dead bang, perfect cuts without ever having them a hair too short or having to trim a micron or two off from an over cut.

Many of the fillets (Wreltneys on this side of the Atlantic) we use are too shallow to accept V-nails. We simply glue them together in a standard vise and assemble them into the reverse bevel mat. Again, with the FilletMaster, they fit perfectly first time around and the mat will keep the assembled fillets together.

We usually use ATG to hold them in place in the mat (although most suggest PVA glue), then build up the remaining space under the mat with 1/8” Foam Board.

To protect the art, we usually line the fillet with Lineco Foil tape or, if we have some lying around, 1 ply rag barrier paper.

We built a small carousel to hold the 80 or so fillet profiles (held to the display with Velcro) that we have available to us. We placed the carousel near our corner sample display board which we encourage customers to play with. When they bump into the fillet display, questions inevitably get asked and we can demonstrate what they are and how they work.

We don’t have to push fillets anymore; they sell themselves now.