how to get a neat finish to the back of a deep rebated frame

[cliff]

When using a moulding with a deep rebate I often find it difficult to get a really neat finish when masking the back with the tape, (I normally use self adhesive gummed tape)particularly in the corners, when you tend to get a few creases. I suppose one solution is to pack out the frame to bring the backing board almost up to the level of the back edge of the moulding. Just wondered what the general consensus was out there as I think it's good to give a job back to a customer which looks good not only from the front, but also the back!

A Happy New Year to all.

Cheers Guys.

Cliff

[Trinity]

I use gummed tape and a little boning tool. The boning tool allows me to apply a lot of pressure, working from centre outwards to the corner. The wetted tape allows for enough movement to work it into the corner without creasing.

[Jonny2morsos]

Gummed paper tape I find easier to mould into a deep rebate frame.

I went back to gummed paper tape a while back as I find it gives a better finish which looks more craftsmanlike.

It is also a quarter of the cost of self adhesive tape.

One of the dispensing machines is a must. I bought mine from a stationery supply company as it was much cheaper than framing suppliers.

[prospero]

Yep. Gummed paper tape lasts. It doesn't go blotchy or dry up and drop off after a few years. You can remove it by damping. You can slide it into place while wet (like wallpapering). Any minor bubbles/creases pull falt as it dries. It is much cheaper than s/a tape. It looks better in situ IMHO. You can get it in rolls up to 4" wide which means you can take it the entire area on the frame up to the edge which covers any manky bits on the back of the moulding.

Need I say more?

[misterdiy]

Again gummed tape, but on deep rebate frames we cut the tape to just fit snugly into the corners to get a crease proof finish and then stick little squares over the bare corners,. fiddly but a satisfying finish.

On the point of self adhesive tape, I hate it. Loads of pictures that come in are stuck down with this stuff and it leaves a sticky residue over everything and me. The only time I use this awful stuff is on plastic frames that don't take gummed tape very well

[Roboframer]

I sometimes pack the back out with foam board offcuts, but only if I've got a build-up of them and the bin is beckoning, which isn't often. Otherwise it's a dust cover as per they do it across the pond, but not with the intention of keeping out dust, just cosmetics, underneath it's sealed in the normal way.

[easypopsgcf]

Gummed Paper Tape, with dispenser. That is all

[prospero]

The only s/a tape I have found that does the biz is the black stuff that Lion sell. (ref 825). I use this occasionally on plastic mouldings and for re-taping farmes that have already had s/a tape on them. I also use it on stand-up frames were the back is more visible. Looks quite classy. It lasts much longer than other stuff I have tried. Disadvantages - It can mark walls if you don't put bumpers on. It's expensive. £10.23+vat for a 50mmx50m roll. 4" wide gumstrip is 5.45 for a 200m roll. (2.72p per metre). The black tape is about 20p a metre. And it's only half as wide.

The silicone-backed stuff just looks naff IMHO, although it does stick like the proverbial. (Not to itself though. ) 'Eco' type tape looks reasonable. In my exp it doesn't last long before the glue dries out and it starts to lift off. Masking tape? Better to use nothing at all.

I like to paper the whole surface of the back of the frame. No v-nail holes bare wood or dribbly bits showing.

If I could get black lickysticky tape, I would be a happy bunny.

[cliff]

thanks for all the replies -I will try gummed tape.

Cheers


Cliff