Flexitabs a no no?
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Juliet Rees
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Thu 26 Apr, 2007 10:12 pm
- Location: South Wales
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Roboframer
I know what you mean.
Fire flexitabs in - or even semi-rigid, but fill the frame with mountboard of the same thickness as the mounted pastel first.
Bend them out - remove mountboard, fit mounted pastel with the frame standing up; not face down - bend tabs in and seal/fit hardware with the frame still standing.
Then drop it - don't ask!
Fire flexitabs in - or even semi-rigid, but fill the frame with mountboard of the same thickness as the mounted pastel first.
Bend them out - remove mountboard, fit mounted pastel with the frame standing up; not face down - bend tabs in and seal/fit hardware with the frame still standing.
Then drop it - don't ask!
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markw
I have a number of fixing devices - the pneumatic gun is used the most because it tends to give the best result. The guild have tried hard to present standards that work - but I would agree with Dermot - by not actively engaging with the industry they fail to keep up with current trends - They will claim that they consult members - but membership is a small percentage of the number framing.
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Grahame Case
we have an OMER 53 on order from Lion now,
Stewart in their technical department was a real help and informed us about new legislation covering air Blow Guns... running them at 100PSI is not exactly legal anymore, they have to be at 40psi
so I'm eagerly awaiting the OMER and associated pressure reducers so we can have a play and see what it can do for us,
Semi Rigid tabs are also on order, no more Fletcher Terry guns with dodgy springs and jamming mechanisms
Stewart in their technical department was a real help and informed us about new legislation covering air Blow Guns... running them at 100PSI is not exactly legal anymore, they have to be at 40psi
so I'm eagerly awaiting the OMER and associated pressure reducers so we can have a play and see what it can do for us,
Semi Rigid tabs are also on order, no more Fletcher Terry guns with dodgy springs and jamming mechanisms
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absolute framing
- Posts: 282
- Joined: Mon 03 Oct, 2005 11:19 pm
- Location: Dublin, Ireland
- Organisation: Absolute Framing
- Interests: Reading the Lion Catalogue
- Contact:
For Pastels, we make a Pastel Drop Mount.
Cut some Acid Free Foam Board the same size as your window mount.
Cut appature 6mm larger than your mount board and with a straight cut.
Use D/S Tape, atg or similar on the bottom lip, this is for holding on to any pastel that may drop.
Atg the Foam to the Window Mount.
Job Done!!
Regards, Stephen


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Cut some Acid Free Foam Board the same size as your window mount.
Cut appature 6mm larger than your mount board and with a straight cut.
Use D/S Tape, atg or similar on the bottom lip, this is for holding on to any pastel that may drop.
Atg the Foam to the Window Mount.
Job Done!!
Regards, Stephen


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Not your average framer
- Posts: 11008
- Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
- Location: Devon, U.K.
- Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
- Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
- Location: Glorious Devon
I've got one of those things that gently squeezes a framers point into the moulding. I don't know what they are called, but I think I got it from eBay.Juliet Rees wrote:I'm a bit late into this discussion.....
When framing an original pastel that hasn't been fixed, I always use multi/flexi points. You can't fire anything into the frame if the pastel is already in it without a pile of pastel dust gathering.
Does that mean that this is budget framing?
I'm a little surprised that I've never seen them in any suppliers catalogues.
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Grahame Case
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Not your average framer
- Posts: 11008
- Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
- Location: Devon, U.K.
- Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
- Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
- Location: Glorious Devon
