Multi Aperture

[strokebloke]

Multi-aperture mount 200612.jpg (110.58 KiB) Viewed 5155 times

Well, I've had a go at several multi-aperture window mounts now - the attached being the most recent.
I may have broken all of the rule of framing, but I've found it by far the simplest to remove all of the stops, and having set out the apertures on the reverse, with highlighted tags for the stop start points, cut using the beveled blade, rotating systematically.
It took 10 mins to set out and about the same to cut.
OK, it's not large, (420 x 365mm) but I'm reasonably satisfied with the result.
I'll have a go at something similar now with a double mount.

If the 'free-hand' (without stops) cut is a total NO-NO, please do tell me.
I'm not committed to it - it merely seems easiest.

PS: I'm sorry for the awful photo - the lighting in here is atrocious & I didn't use flash.

[Roboframer]

If it works for you, and it obviously does, it can't be a no-no. Pre-CMC (and I've only had one for 3 years) I'd run a mile from that - respekt!

[strokebloke]

Double Multi-aperture mount 200612.jpg (151.52 KiB) Viewed 5136 times

This one will make you chuckle then John
I cut the top mount first, then cut some mat strips 5mm wide, placed the top mount on top of the under mount marked the apertures then with the strips drew the smaller apertures on the under mount.
I'm going to try your idea of taping the two together and using the incut to work from, but at the moment I'm not sure I fully understand it.
A fresh mind tomorrow & I'll give it a try

Again, apologies for the photo.

[strokebloke]

What I've discovered during this process is that the beveled blade carrier on the 2100 has two scribed lines which provide the entrance point and the exit point for the blade when cutting freehand.
I suspect this 2100 never had a top and bottom stop fitted, as they were originally (in the Fletcher brochure) optional extras.
So it would have been intended only to have had the margin stop.

[Roboframer]

the beveled blade carrier on the 2100 has two scribed lines which provide the entrance point and the exit point for the blade when cutting freehand.

That's a cool feature then; the (old) ultimat gold has just the one. Maybe the (new) ultimat futura has picked up on this feature as it has on other Fletcher features.

[IFGL]

Lookin good , your learning very fast.

[strokebloke]

I'm still using the 2100 vertically, by the way IFGL. (you asked that I post progress )
Because I'm new to this, I'm not having to 'unlearn' anything. It's no more of a learning process for me to use it vertically than it was to use it flat on a bench.
I can see the sense in John Mcaffee's suggestion though, that if I'm going to do large multi-aperture window mounts I will need to rig up a left hand extension arm. For the size of board I've used here the margin stop rail is OK, but for anything much larger it would be inadequate.

[David]

That's looking damn good to me. The double mount is very impressive, I did it once and decided not to do it a second time.
On multi aperture mounts I almost alway did them free hand using the two marks on the blade carrier, I found it a lot quicker and very accurate. A rule I had was to either do all the cutting on the stops or all free hand - cutting to pencil lines, as I found there was a slight difference in the position of the cut.

For large mounts I didn't have a left hand extension. I would remove the mount guide and wedge a board under the base to give any support to the left, we had another bench 3' away so I could bridge the gap if necessary. You need to cover the bracket that locks the locking strap as this will scratch the board.

Good work.

[strokebloke]

as I found there was a slight difference in the position of the cut.

That is an enormous relief to hear, David.
I assumed that I was doing something fundamentally wrong. In fact, it was this issue that persuaded me to dispense with the stops and particularly the margin fence, and do everything freehand. Finding the two scribed lines on the blade carrier made things so much easier.
Thank you for your encouragement
I assume from your observation about the left hand extension that you, too, used your mount-cutter vertically ?

[strokebloke]

You need to cover the bracket that locks the locking strap as this will scratch the board.

Thank you David.
I've just understood what you meant by this. ~ by looking at the 2100 & thinking 'big mounts'.
What I have done so far hasn't been so large that it has reached the bracket.
I will have to prepare, by placing some duct tape readily available.
(I've got a piece of self adhesive tape with a hole in so that I don't lose the thin flat washer on the locking knob when I remove the margin fence )

Jack

[David]

I used the Fletcher horizontal on the bench, with large mounts the board would droop too much over the edge so would need some extra support. The duct tape is a good idea I used mountboard and masking tape. I think the most windows I cut was 54 for assorted photos including circles and ovals, the cutting wasn't too bad but the marking out drove me nuts.

[strokebloke]

54 !!!!
I take my hat off to you, David.
I can't even imagine something that size

On reflection I think your suggestion of mount board and tape may be better than duct tape, on the bracket.
Duct tape is prone to leaving a sticky residue when removed.

[prospero]

I'm uber-impressed with those mounts Jack. I would be pleased to have done them myself.

If I were doing the one with the round window, I would make the board slightly oversize and cut the round first. Then mark the back so that all the sq windows used the edges of the round as a datum point. Then cut to the lines, eyeballing the start and stop points. I haven't done one like that lately, but I've done some in the past with a mix of rounds, ovals and square/octagonals. Quite a puzzle.

The worst one I ever did was for a set of ciggie cards with 23 horizontal and 27 vertical. That took a bit of head-scratching just working out the arrangement.

[Steve N]

I think you have done very well Jack, I used to mark out on the back in pencil, then 'do it by eye' , many years ago, maybe 1993 or 94 I wrote an article for the Guild's mag ABT on how to cut multi windows in double mounts ( it even had photos, had to wait for them to come back from the developers,) I even demoed this technique at some local Guild Branch Meetings, and this was in the days before there were many CMC's.
I will see if I can find a copy and post the article on here (if the Guild will let me , might be copyrighted )

[Roboframer]

Pre-CMC I'd much prefer to add slips than do a multi aperture double mount - but for cigarette cards it's fffffff ...inicky!

cigcards slips.jpg (38.36 KiB) Viewed 5051 times

[strokebloke]

Thanks gents.
Though to be fair I have to tell you that on the double, one of the corners on the red undermount tore slightly as I hadn't quite made the junction. You just can't see it on the carp photo
From now on I'll tape across once I've done opposing sides then when I do the perps, the fall-out won't be able to move.
Then if I need to deal with an undercut with a blade, there's no chance of it tearing.

I would love to see your work Steve.

"23 horizontal and 27 vertical."
Grief Peter, that's got to take the biscuit, hasn't it?
600+ apertures

I did the circle first on the single, thinking that if I cut the squares/rectangles first, they might foul the rotation of the 1100.
Nice to know I got the principle right.

I sincerely appreciate all of your encouragement/comments, because I want to be confident that I can do most things, before people start asking me to do work for them.
The woodwork (frame) side of the business isn't a problem for me.
The setting out for multiple apertures takes time and concentration, but not significantly more time and concentration than it takes to cut the apertures.
It's things like all of the various types of mounts.
The variety of materials available, and their uses.
Learning about the frame profiles and the mount materials.
I'm starting to build up a set of chevrons, but I have a very limited selection.
These are the areas I have no experience of.


I have a fear of customers coming to me, believing I know more than I do.
I suspect that there will always be an element of that, but at the same time I want to enjoy the framing, not live in trepidation of it, as well as make a little pocket money from it, as a bonus.
I have made up my never to be afraid to tell a customer I don't know, but can find out - or recommend them to another experienced framer; there are quite a number from the Forum in, or around, Northampton

[David McCormack]

Pre-CMC I'd much prefer to add slips than do a multi aperture double mount - but for cigarette cards it's fffffff ...inicky!

Would they all be a reverse bevel as well?

[strokebloke]

What do you mean by 'slips' (in your photo) John?
Are they the same as slips in a frame?

[Roboframer]

Mount slips/fillets - designed to edge mount apertures -

cigcard slips 2.jpg (25.51 KiB) Viewed 5043 times

Most could be used to add a gold/sliver/whatever sight edge to a frame too.

Reverse bevel multi aperture - manually? NNNNnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnope!

[Roboframer]

Arqadia do a nice range http://www.arqadia.co.uk/vcat11/#/200/ and these don't include the Larson Juhl ones that are made to match some of their ranges.

The slip in the photos above is 305 011 044