When to change blades on Double Mitre Saw

[stevebowen]

Had my Cassese 969 for a couple of months now and its done several thousand cut cycles and still seems to be cutting well.

What are the first signs that the blades need sharpening?

Got a brand new set ready to go on but am interested in what the first signs are that they are getting blunt.

Many thanks

[Graysalchemy]

Mine get sharpened probably every month. Like a morso you will know the cut will start tearing on the bottom and if you do a really big hard moulding the blade may strugle and you may end up having to reduce the travelling speed of the blades to get it through. And if they are really blunt it wont cut at all and stop the blade. By the way mine cost about £25 a pair to be sharpened at a reputable blade sharpener.

[stevebowen]

Thanks for that, it is a little rough on the bottom so guess its time for a new set.

Finally got the new dust extractor fitted this week as the temporary one was not up to the job. Got a unimaster in the warehouse bit now and 8" steel ducting running back to the saw, it works a treat, was feeling lazy so moved the control box away from the extractor so its next to the saw, save those aging legs

[Graysalchemy]

The other thing which will cause a rough bottom is the nylon cutting block wearing the usually last a year or so.

[stevebowen]

WOW! What a difference a new set makes, didn't notice how blunt they had become

Mark said you can tell by the noise the blades make but didnt notice the change as it was so gradual. Now I have gone through my first rotation of blades I know what to look/listen for and will get them done a lot more reguarly like yourself

Thanks for the advice, spot on as usual

I'll keep an eye on the cutting block but that seems good for now.

[Graysalchemy]

Not only do theyt become blunt but you can get a build up of residue especially if you are using plastic or pine. You can get a cleaner to get it off you just soak them over night.

[A3DFramer]

I hope I may be excused butting in on this topic, but as it has the attention of two users of double mitre saws, could I ask for an opinion on the suitability of this equipment for cutting large section mouldings at right angles to the normal line of cut for the purpose of making plinths.

My reason for asking is more out of general interest and research, so any observations would be of value.

[stevebowen]

Not sure I fully understand this question but the blades are fixed at 45deg angles to the fence so can not cut at 90 deg

Does this help?

[A3DFramer]

When cutting a moulding normally the back is on the bed of the of the guillotine or saw with the outer edge against the back and the profile is designed for this, where some profiles lend themselves as suitable for plinths they probably will be cut with back of the moulding perpendicular to the the bed of the guillotine, with sight edge either up or down.

This usually exposes more undercuts on downside of the moulding than in usual frame cutting, as I have got around this by making carriers and packing with plasticine, I have often wondered if double mitre saws cope better with such undercuts. I hope this explains it.

[stevebowen]

I have never tried these but you can control the speed that the blades push through the moulding so if the moulding is moving slightly, just make the blade pass through slower so the moulding stays put.

If ever you wanted to look into it further, you can always send me a sample length of moulding to cut for you

Best regards
Steve

[A3DFramer]

Thanks for the offer, my experience of double chop saws was back a few years, at the height of the pub decor boom, I supplied a few contract framers, who cut pine pine moulding by the mile.(when they were not snagging WW 2 shrapnel)
I think I will be starting a topic on plinths in the near future as I have a few enquiries on the go at the moment.