Learner Framer requires mentor!

[cebrooker]

Hello all,
I am in the process of setting up - bought a great Morso and underpinner from the forum (amazing service). I'm in the process of trying to source materials but there are a couple of things that are confusing me. The biggest one is currently the depth of the frame....surely the needed depth depends on whether something is double-mounted etc. so you would need about 4 different depths of the same pattern? Or am I once again being an idiot?!

My main reason for posting is that I am looking for someone who would be able to give me a few lessons in order to get me started, Preferably the nearer to the Scottish Borders the better but willing to travel and obviously pay for the service!

Thanks

Charles

[David McCormack]

Hi Charles,

I always look for a minimum of 10mm for a frame depth, that is the rebate depth. This will allow glass, windowmount, undermount and backing board and enough room left to fire in your framers points. Can also squeeze in a double mount if needed.

Obviously you can have a frame that is deeper than you need, no problem, and if you don't like the extra space you can fill up with foamboard before putting in your backing board

[cebrooker]

Thanks David, that makes a lot of sense! How many different styles of mouldings do you think are required to start things off?

[prospero]

Hi Charles.

There is a bewildering array of mouldings. Finding the ones that will suit you is largely a matter of trial and error. Some look good but are a pain to work with. And as you observe some have woefully inadequate rebate depths that severely limit their uses. On wider mouldings you can extend the depth using strips of square timber, but this creates extra work so best to avoid shallow mouldings. Not easy. Mouldings tend to be made with a certain market in mind. The mass-readymade market doesn't need deep rebates and a couple of mm saved in material makes a big difference to the price.
Best thing to do is get a rep over with his sample case. Cherry pick a few mouldings and buy a couple of sticks of each to try out. The magic mouldings cut and join well, don't twist and are at the right price. What these are exactly will vary according to the type of work you mostly get.
The main thing is not to jump in with both feet and buy large quantities of what appears to be a nice moulding. You can come unstuck.
It's nice to keep a selection of core mouldings. You won't need that many in practice - maybe 40-50. Get samples of other likely ones, particularly the more expensive ones and order after you get a job for them.

Remember, suppliers will happily sell you mouldings but they expect you to figure out how to work with them. Some are aimed at people who do production work with automated saw-based cutting setups. An indie framer with a Morso will struggle to get good results with some of these mouldings. Avoid stuff with a thick, hard coating. It may seem cheap, but you will spend a lot of time making good chippy edges. Not to mention having your blades sharpened very often.

Another thing when choosing new mouldings: A catalogue or a rep's case is like box of chocolates to a framer. But before scooping up one that catches your eye, take moment to visualise just what you would use it on. Most framers have a few great looking mouldings shoved in the corner that they have had for years and never found a use for.

[David McCormack]

I probably frame as many jobs in a week as some framers do in an afternoon but I've found a way of working that suits me and my customers. I only use unfinished profiles in a few different wood types and hand finish with paint, stain & wax etc. This gives me low stock but a wide variety of finishes from a small collection of moulding profiles and sizes. I've never made a single frame from a pre-finished moulding.

You just have to find out who your customers are in your area and build up a stock range from each job you do.

As Prospero says, don't be temped by the rep's box of chocs

[Otters Pool Studio]

I've never made a single frame from a pre-finished moulding.

This is interesting as I only make frames from pre-finished mouldings. Here in Guildford where overheads are high, my hourly rate would add a hundred pounds to a frame if it needed hand finishing, so instead, I stock ranges of mouldings that come in a variety of colours and sizes.

e.g. this range contains 4 profiles in 5 colours

2014-08-21 10.16.53.jpg

Charles - you will find many discussions on here regarding the cost of your time, and this must be factored into your pricing and, ultimately, your choice of mouldings. Time is the most expensive component of your frame, and over the years I have eliminated mouldings from my range that are troublesome and slow down my production in favour of those that are easy and quick to work with. Unfortunately for you, this only comes from experience so you'll have to give some a try and not be afraid to ditch them if they give you grief!

[David McCormack]

As I say, my volume of work is low but my prices are high compared to other local framers... it works for me. But I may never retire I think I just love the sound of sandpaper in action and the smell of wax

[cebrooker]

Thank you so much for the different opinions, the theme tends to be quite similar though...don't dive in! On the basis that I am starting off as a hobby with modestly professional gear (found through this great forum) to get through the mountains of things I need to get framed for myself and family then the value of my time is very low. I am going to get through that lot and then make multi-photo-cut-out-picture frame type things on the basis that mastering being able to get mountboard cut is probably my biggest technical challenge so far. In terms of picking colours of mouldings/mounts for a picture, does anyone know of any good books on the subject?
Thanks again,
Charles

[prospero]

Trust your instincts..... Feel The Force.

[IFGL]

where are you based charles?

[Roboframer]

Here clickety click

[cebrooker]

There we go, I can be tracked at all times. The girlfriend got me tagged with a GPS tracker because I kept getting lost in Tesco!

[IFGL]

I will be in Penrith in a few weeks time, you are a little too far away for me to pop in.