Hi Nick,
Reg is sitting in front of the cupboards now! LOL
And I didn't take any other photos of the construction as I went other than the one earlier in this thread:
part done.jpg
I initially made the 40mm deep box from 5mm foam core. I did this using wood glue and household pins (like dressmakers pins) and then taped the outside with brown tape which I folded over to cover the join of the base to the sides. The sides are on the outside of the base rather than glued on to it. I thought this would give more strength.
I then cut the gold mount board and stuck it with double sided tape to the bottom - This can be slightly smaller than the box for ease as the edges won't show.
I then cut the side pieces of foam core about 2cm wide I think, to fit around the edge to make the border you can see in the pic above. I used three of them so the glass sandwich sits 15mm above the gold mount board underneath. I then cut strips of mount board to finish the edges just in case they might be seen from certain angles under the raised mounts and I stuck these on with double sided tape also.
So when I placed the glass sandwich onto it's platform I was left with about 10mm before the top of the sides of my box.
I didn't cut the double mount as a double mount where you stick the boards together.
The lower Chinese Red mount is cut to fit inside the box.
I cut the aperture and then stuck 1cm strips of 5mm foam core all around the edges of the mount. I did this to both the back and front of the aperture mount. This means the mounts are spaced away from each other as well as both being spaced away from the dragon to enhance the 3D effect - My first ever attempt and I maybe got a bit carried away! LOL
I then dropped this down on top of the glass sandwich.
The top gold aperture mount went on top covering the sides of the foam core box.
I used the technique that Roboframer explained to me of the inlay mount.
I stained the cut out with
this nifty little 'Chalk Ink' product I found in a Hobbycraft store that is made for those people who indulge in 'stamping' which I have no interest in whatsoever but some of the powders and inks now produced for the 'craft' I can see could be put to a myriad of decorative uses. I used the red but there are a nice selection of colours there
I really liked the effect it had over the metallic finish of the mount board.
I think they would be a good option to use for colouring the bevel cut on the mount board - especially that with a finish such as the gold board I used because you can wipe it off easily with a damp cloth if you catch it right away
So once I had reassembled the mount with my "wash line for cheats", I placed it on top of the box and then laid the final sheet of glass over it and sealed it with some masking tape.
Cut the
deep rebate moulding I chose, assembled the frame and then filled and primed it as suggested by Prospero and used
Plastikote Gold Spray this time to finish it in gold. I don't like this product anywhere near as much as I do the Rust-oleum product but the colour was better for the gold mount board. With the Rust-oleum the frame would have been a lighter shade than the rest and I didn't think that would work so well.
One lesson I have learned is to always make sure that the rebate is a little bigger than you think you need.
I expected to have about 5mm to play with once I put the work into the frame but there wasn't even room for any Art-bak!
Here is a shot to show you what I mean:
BACK.JPG
I had cut a piece of Art-bak but when I placed it in situ it was going to make it very difficult to get my flexipoints in so I didn't use it.
Haven't added the D rings, cord and bumps yet cos I need it to happily lay flat in the cupboard until I get the room sorted and the hooks in the walls
I think that covers it all,
If you have any further questions Nick, just fire away.
Oh and thanks for the interest
