The Framers Forum

Does this help

Now you are just being silly, just cut the backing inside out like you would if you had inverted the angles.

That's all well and good but under that backing is AR glass, a double mount and undermount. I don't have enough of that moulding left to make a new landscape frame and I can't do it by changing the rest because I don't have any of the top mount colour left .. or anything close - if it was the bottom mount with just 5mm showing I could get away with it.

Could you carefully split the frame down then re pin it in landscape?

You didn't cut the long side of the backing first. However which ever wsy you cut and joint the frame you need to do with the back and glass otherwise they don't fit. You obviously need to cut the long length of the back first. Just recut it.

Nice one Robo...

So which end of the moulding do you apply your glue, I always apply it to the right hand end on even dates, then the left hand ends on odd dates

I heard of a man who complained about two chop frames he ordered. He ordered two 8x10s and got an 8x8 and a 10x10.

If you aren't sure, just resolve to only make square frames, problem solved !
Seriously, the glazing industry is height then width, but many Aust framers seem to take the US way and measure width then height.
Maybe that is common practice there, and why many cmc machinery do the width x height.

Robo,

The problem is you have a landscape format bench, turn it around 90 degrees and you'll be ok.

What if you are doing readymades? Do you call one a 12x10 or a 10x12. I never really paid the issue no nevermind. But I suppose the intuitive way, for me anyway, is to quote the biggest dimension first.

Am i the only one who pins in a circle rather than two L's? (ie bottom to side to top to 2nd side)? i find particularly with big frames its easier to handle and also ensures best match when pinning square frames.

Two L's will never make a circle!

Seriously though, if I understand right, you'd end up with a three sided thing like this ...

[

but longer on those short sides for most things, obviously ..... and would than have to fit the 4th side in.

I think you need help.

My underpinner is up against my workbench and its much easier to slide large 1M square frames through 90 degrees for the final pinning than 180 degrees.

That is true but I think the fact that previous to that you have to handle 3 joined up pieces makes the whole process less easy .... but I'll give it a go anyway.

If you turn the workbench clockwise whilst turning the underpinner anti-clockwise, you'd be able to slide the frames through 360 degrees.

Well as we have a CMC it asks for x axis first (landscape) and Y axis second. We made a conscious decison to follow that protocol so that we both record the orders in the same format. Hence landscape first and portrait second.

Ready-mades as Prospero says are always biggest number first (as it doesn't matter whether its landscape or portrait) so its always 8x6, 10x8, 20x16 etc.

I still cock up on occasions though and get them the wrong way round

Oh and I always pin in rotation. God knows how people pin two halves together - plus I use my underpinner from the rear (Alfamacchine)

Maybe we should do a survey, I've always assumed the two Ls way was standard, maybe it's 50/50 or maybe even more do it in rotation than the two Ls. I think the main advantage of the two Ls is that you only have to handle more than two joined pieces once, on the last corner; with the rotation method it's twice.

misterdiy wrote:Ready-mades as Prospero says are always biggest number first (as it doesn't matter whether its landscape or portrait)

Unless it has a bottom weighted mount, Nielsen do plenty

When I started this lark I used the 'L' method but only because I thought that was the way it was done. I never found it any more convenient than rotation. It's rotation everyday day for me (if anyone is interested )

I started off doing the rotation style then about 10 Years ago switch to the L method, unfortunatelyi can't remember why.