Re: A Nightmare on Oak St.
Posted: Mon 02 Jun, 2008 9:44 pm
So erk can be a pain in the ash?
Only if you live in Hull.Roboframer wrote:So erk can be a pain in the ash?
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A Nightmare on Oak St.
Page 2 of 2
Re: A Nightmare on Oak St.
Posted: Mon 02 Jun, 2008 9:52 pm
Re: A Nightmare on Oak St.
Posted: Mon 02 Jun, 2008 9:59 pm
Quercus Robur
Robur Framer
One day (sorry for the frankenthread) I was watching 'Who wants to be a millionaire?' and the million pound question was .... "If you planted the seed of Quercus Robur, what would grow?
A flower
A shrub
A tree
I knew straightaway, and I also knew it was an English Erk, but I didn't know HOW I knew. I remembered later.
Every 3 years or so someone from West Sussex County Council turns up with a 'Tree Register' - a record of trees donated/planted in memory of lost relatives, in a very nice leather bound book.
I have to enter, in posh joined up writing, the name of the donater, who the tree is in memory of, where it is planted and the latin and english name.
Quercus Robur is like every other line!
Robur Framer
One day (sorry for the frankenthread) I was watching 'Who wants to be a millionaire?' and the million pound question was .... "If you planted the seed of Quercus Robur, what would grow?
A flower
A shrub
A tree
I knew straightaway, and I also knew it was an English Erk, but I didn't know HOW I knew. I remembered later.
Every 3 years or so someone from West Sussex County Council turns up with a 'Tree Register' - a record of trees donated/planted in memory of lost relatives, in a very nice leather bound book.
I have to enter, in posh joined up writing, the name of the donater, who the tree is in memory of, where it is planted and the latin and english name.
Quercus Robur is like every other line!
Re: A Nightmare on Oak St.
Posted: Tue 03 Jun, 2008 11:36 am
About 2 in every 3 frames i make is in oak, and i have to say my relationship to this timber is love/hate in a big way.
I haven't used an underpinner on oak for about 6 years - my CS88 is just not up to it. I glue it with Titebond then use either a pneumatic headless pinner(fires 0.5mm wire) on thinner mouldings or 50mm nail gun on thicker stuff. Even this can be a problem - the odd length of oak is so hard it can send the 50mm nails round in a semi-circle and either it pokes out into the rebate or out of the side - major pain in the wotsit. The other jointing method i use a lot for oak is one which must have a name, but i've no idea what. You need a router table and a jig made so the corner of a frame(after gluing) can be routed on the diagonal with a slot cutter. You then glue fillets of oak(carefully machined to about 0.1mm tolerances) into the diagonal slot you've cut, trim off the excess and sand it back smooth. I use this technique on lots of hardwood frames, especially stained ones - the diagonal pieces always stain darker and it becomes a feature, but the customer has to really want it - for a small frame i add £50, for a large on more like £80 for this method. Also in its favour is that this method is unbelievably strong. I tested to destruction a metre-square frame in 2"x2" oak joined like this, and it took some effort to break it(and i'm 6' tall and about 14 stone)
As for Morso blades, they have to be sharpened perfectly to deal with chunky oak - last time i had a big job on in fat oak i ended up just buying an new set of blades, just to be sure. Oak is
- pure evil in cellulose form
I haven't used an underpinner on oak for about 6 years - my CS88 is just not up to it. I glue it with Titebond then use either a pneumatic headless pinner(fires 0.5mm wire) on thinner mouldings or 50mm nail gun on thicker stuff. Even this can be a problem - the odd length of oak is so hard it can send the 50mm nails round in a semi-circle and either it pokes out into the rebate or out of the side - major pain in the wotsit. The other jointing method i use a lot for oak is one which must have a name, but i've no idea what. You need a router table and a jig made so the corner of a frame(after gluing) can be routed on the diagonal with a slot cutter. You then glue fillets of oak(carefully machined to about 0.1mm tolerances) into the diagonal slot you've cut, trim off the excess and sand it back smooth. I use this technique on lots of hardwood frames, especially stained ones - the diagonal pieces always stain darker and it becomes a feature, but the customer has to really want it - for a small frame i add £50, for a large on more like £80 for this method. Also in its favour is that this method is unbelievably strong. I tested to destruction a metre-square frame in 2"x2" oak joined like this, and it took some effort to break it(and i'm 6' tall and about 14 stone)
As for Morso blades, they have to be sharpened perfectly to deal with chunky oak - last time i had a big job on in fat oak i ended up just buying an new set of blades, just to be sure. Oak is
- pure evil in cellulose form