The Framers Forum

mikeysaling wrote:What i didn't realise was the method of separateing the glass after scoring was different. ie on the fletcher there is a handle to do it

Mike,
The Fletcher I have doesn't have a handle to (separate) break the glass after it's been scored. I wouldn't think any glass cutter would have such a thing. It needs to be broken by hand.
It has a 'handle' to break perspex!

Mine also has legs that go all the way to the floor! Maybe they have specially designed Fletcher wall cutters for your part of the world?

I've been using a Keencut System 4000 for the past 10 years without problems, but always preferred to cut glass with an oil filled cutter on a flat table - vertically in front of me is not where I like something as breakable as glass to be - if it breaks there's only one way for it to go - down towards my pink and delicate bits. I've had just 2 oil filled cutters in the last 28 years - a Toyo TC17 and the present one is a Silberschnitt; both superb instruments - I'd probably be still using the Toyo, but it got nicked. Use whether it's got a brass body - much heavier and more positive than plastic - as a deciding factor. If you can pick a System 4000 up s/h you should only need to pay around £400.

hi there - not sure what you are saying here do yoou use the 4000 for glass? or rely on the hand jobs!!

He's saying he prefers to cut glass by hand.

But I actually think a wall mounted cutter is safer in some ways - if you cut on a table, that table will probably be higher than the bed of your wall mounted cutter and you have to lift glass vertically on to your table, and then, worse still for larger pieces of glass, lower it to horizonal - unless your table is sloped, but still....