Stand backs

[ross]

I notice under the MDF discussion, the question of standbacks appeared briefly

The metal unit Kev displayed is similar to one available through Antons in Australia, but instead of its base being attached to the backing board, it uses a clip that has to be inserted into the base of the frame unit and then the metal arm can be inserted into it. The only problem with this is that Fome-cor is not strong enough to hold the standback for any length of time - we have reverted to putting a second back in the unit ie 3mm MDF so that the metal clip will at least have some strong support. (Robo, I couldn't understand what materials you use to overcome this problem)

The standard stand back available here is next to useless as the leg quickly folds, and the customer is back seeking a replacement!!

Are there any good quality stand backs available?

Ross

[foxyframer]

We make our stand-up backs from shh... 3ml sbs, using time honoured clips and bars with bifurcated rivets. Looks good; made correctly, doesn't break or fall over.

We can buy stock sizes over here Ross, quality does vary. So make our own.

Customer bringing back a busted s.u.b. in front of others just looks bad.

[Roboframer]

we have reverted to putting a second back in the unit ie 3mm MDF so that the metal clip will at least have some strong support. (Robo, I couldn't understand what materials you use to overcome this problem)
Ross

I use the stuff that you call coreflute and we cal corricor or Art-Bak etc.

[kev@frames]

Hi Ross

the one in the pic is exactly the same as the one you use, except that the leg holder plate (for want of a better description) is fitted into the back using a small press.
The stands (black or brassed legs) are interchangable with the pressed-on backplate or the slipover back plates. I'd reckon if your supplier is selling one, they will be selling the other, or could obtain the press.
These are fairly adaptable as you can place it exactly where you want it on the back, to compensate for different widths of moulding. I dont know what the recommended angle of lean is, but is nice if you have three or four stand-up pics of various sizes for the same customer to have them all sitting at the same angle, even if they are in different width mouldings.

[Bill Henry]

There is product we use occasionally, “The Universal Easel”, made by the Schwartz Studios. I cannot find a web site for them, though. They are available from most picture framing distributors over here and many on-line art supply sites.



They are designed to screw into to the top and bottom rails of a wood moulding, so you don’t have to worry about the easel pulling out of the backing material.

They come in two sizes: 4” to 10” and 8” to 18” and are quite stable. One of the things I like about this easel is that I can use a dust cover while fitting the frame.

There is also an “easel” designed for (but not manufactured) by Nielsen and other metal mouldings that screws into the bottom rail and can support a moderately sized frame. Sorry, don’t have a manufacturer for that one, either.

[realhotglass]

Now THAT'S a great looking design Bill.
Because it works as a one size fits all (reasonable) standback sizes.
Almost customer DIY foolproof too !

[Grahame Case]

i'm waiting for the day someone has the brain wave of mass producing ARTBAK/Corricor Strut Backs, so lazy and tiny workshop space people like ourselves can get away from using slip over Curl up and Stands

[Roboframer]

I think the curl up 'n stand idea evolved from the failure of the regular MDF strutback.

If it failed on MDF .....................

We sell plate stands and easels, plain and decorative - solves the problem in a lot of cases.

Does anyone (else) put the thin domed bumpers (from Lion) on the base of frames to stand?

[Grahame Case]

I think the curl up 'n stand idea evolved from the failure of the regular MDF strutback.

If it failed on MDF .....................

You have a point John,

of course my mother sees it as "The customers don't like it" (she trys to push MDF Strut backs for off the shelf readymades) rather than "it'll ensure that your strut backs won't fail!"

we have a box of curl up and stands sitting around gathering dust on the shelf.

it makes sense to try our best to ensure the customer is getting the best possible service and protection for their things. even if it is a cheap photo frame.

we need to educate our customers more.. i think i'll get my creative juices flowing and create a little information poster for people who choose to browse our readymades on their own....

[kev@frames]

when we sell ready made mounts, which will usually be going into our ready made frames or someone elses, we try to remember to include a leaflet which gives the very rudimentary basics the customer needs, summed up pretty much as (not in these exact words)

dont use masking tape, sellotape etc, use gummed tape, fix at the top and dont fix it all the way round, standard board is fine for anything not important and replacable, but any photos and valuable/sentimental items should have acid free at least, and have a liner layer.

Actually the customers do react well to a few concise tips. Its not exactly educational, but to be fair, if they have never put a picture into a mount before, it gives them a fighting chance. And not too much to read. It maybe also plants a small seed in their mind that there is more to this framing game than meets the eye, and maybe gains you a bit of business as a knowledgable and trustworthy person to deal with, as well as a nice one for giving them a bit of free advice.

Why not put hints and tips them on the back of your business cards? there's a thought!

[Mary Case GCF]

Why not put hints and tips them on the back of your business cards? there's a thought!

we custom print our ready made inserts, i'm sure we could put it on the back of them....

[markw]

I've always been disappointed with the strut backs on my ready-mades. They just don't look as professional as the backs that cover the entire back - with a nice neat turn plated door. The unfinished back and ugly bit of MDF or Corricor really just doesn't work for me and I am never really that impressed with my own product.

Another annoying thing about the various methods used to provide alternatives to the always potentially limp standard strut back is the customer who will insist on twisting the leg out. I watch with fury as the browser picks one up and wrenches the piece of metal sideways - another bracket to replace.

When I've got more time I will try and achieve my perfect strut back - But time - especially spare time seems to be the most elusive thing around my workshop.

[kev@frames]

I suppose it pays to keep in mind that these things may well be sitting in someones window with the backs facing out to the world, or maybe on a desk with the backs facing your customer's customer... so a good looking back is important.

we used to use those "peg" type things, where you drill an 8mm gole in the moulding back, insert a socket, then the black plastig "peg" slotted into that. Couldn't use it on everything, though.

then we used those semicircular spring affairs, which also went into two drilled holes in the moulding.

But we generally drift back to the present arrangement. Sometimes we buy in ready made strut backs if its for a standard size, or larger ones to cut down, but the MDF ones are a bit disappointing.