The Framers Forum

Just had some fresh artwork from an artist called Penny that stencil spray paint images onto banknotes. The plan is to float mount these using my usual hayaku tape methods and was wondering if anyone could see any problem with this? I'll post a picture of the notes when I can.

Thanks people.

You could use Mylar to encapsulate them. No need for adhesive to touch them then. Although they are classed as 'art' rather than collectabilia I suppose so the artist may object to the gloss of the film.

Many thanks for the reply fella. Thought about Mylar corners but think it would spoil the look too much. I might try and iron flat some normal banknotes and see how much the hayaku tape affects them once applied and then removed.

Those are pretty nice! Penny's really popular at the moment... THey'tr prob worth ~ £350 each so dont ruin them

I would do them the way you have suggested.

Thanks fella. Penny does definitely appear to be on the rise and you're spot on with the pricing and they don't hang about at that price either. Nice guy too. I'll post the results when I'm done.

iamzero wrote:Thought about Mylar corners but think it would spoil the look too much

Prospero wasn't talking about corners but encapsulation between two sheets of mylar/melinex, which would be the way I'd go left to my own ends as no adhesive is in contact with the artwork.

Float mounting with hinges is not the best conservation float mounting method; hinges are not the best for normal mounting either ... even if you were using the best type of hinge, which you're not. Here's some interesting reading from a couple of respected conservators.

http://www.thegrumble.com/showthread.ph ... aging-test

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Thanks for the link fella. It would be interesting to know if anyone here has had problems with Hayaku discolouring as I've floated and hinged all my work with them including a large Peter Blake piece.

So if I'm looking at learning how to use Japanese papers and paste where would people recommend I start as I'm looking at ordering from both Wessex and Lion very soon. I'm guessing they'll be some YouTube video on mixing paste up somewhere?

I don't think you'll find the best stuff from any of our framing suppliers, try Preservation Equipment Limited for tissue and starch paste or Conservation by design

I've never searched for youtube how-to's for mixing starch paste but there's plenty of descriptive links, also for wet-tearing hinges to give feathered edges. It's a bit of an art and not a very popular one really because it's just not convenient like self-adhesive or pre-gummed tapes, which simply do not compare. But whichever you use, you are doing something to the artwork, there are methods that do nothing to it, encapsulation for floating being one.

Encapsulation is definitely the best method of protecting the artwork, one problem I have with it though I think it's rather ugly, like art with a condom on.

Depends on how big the item is and what type of glass you're using - viewing angle as well. This newspaper cutting is encapsulated and the glass is AR

I have used the method on a couple of occasions, some Olympic stamps last time if I remember correctly, I always wanna open it back up cos it feels like I left the wrapper on, it's one of my pet hates, we all have em.

You appear to be the go to man roboframer so might I ask if you were in my postion which would you order? Still not conviced that the hayaku is all bad but I would like to learn how to use wheat paste and keep things spot on. I am learning more every piece of mind I frame but the trouble is the art I have keeps increasing in value so I need to do things right.

Don't know about the 'go-to man' bit, but anyway ......

Hayaku isn't all bad it's just not the best, it's better than self adhesive/pressure sensitive but what it has in common with that is that you didn't make it and therefore can't really know what's in/on it.

But even if you do use 'the best' - when/if it comes to it, who's going to remove it with absolutely no evidence of it ever being there? A tough call even for a conservator!

The best methods can be removed by anyone (who understands how they have been done to start with), because they are non-adhesive and the only non-adhesive methods for float mounting works on paper are direct contact overlay methods such as encapsulation and there are far better non-adhesive methods for normal 'window' mounting - so you have to make compromises if floating combined with reversiblity/conservation is a total must.

I can't tell you exactly what type of tissue to order, not regards weight or colour tone, just make sure it's "100% Pure Kozo" It's a touch-and-feel thing; you can buy swatch samples. The Jin Shofu powder is the dog's.

If the art you are getting that keeps increasing in value mostly does not require to be floated then look in to things like edge mounting strips and platform mounts.

I leeeerve platform mounts!