The Framers Forum

Hi All,

I just wondered if anyone out there has framed a Lasercut by Rob Ryan. If so, how did you attach to the back board?

Thanks, in advance.

MT

Had to gooogle to find out what they were.

They look like the framer's nightmare. At first glance, encapsulation in Mylar looks like a good option. Being very light and delicate they should stay put. There is the slight snag of the shinny finish though, which some folks may find objectionable.

Sandwiching between two sheets of glass is another option with just a microdot of adhesive on the back to hold it in place. With a contrasting back board it could look very cool as it would appear to float. Drawback is vulnerability to condensation damage should the frame ever get into a hostile environment.

Another way is the use Spraymount. ( ) If you sprayed the back lightly and left them for a minute or two and then put them into a cold press they should stay stuck. One-way process and (hopefully) permanent though....

I would normally say that spray glues have no place in a framer's arsenal. But used within it's limitations it does sometimes have applications. The key is to let the solvent evaporate and not attach too soon. And then apply a considerable force to bond it. I used to use this way to apply strips of decorative papers to mounts and have some that I did nigh on 20 years ago which haven't lifted. It's not good on large areas, but on small sections it seems to work long-term. But you need to press it down hard. I used an agate burnisher over the strips.

Going to delete the dup post btw....

We have not done any by him, but laser cuts seem to be getting quite popular in the craft circles. Anyway we sandwich between two pieces of glass and use a back mount ( or not in some cases) to give the 3D effect that Prospero mentions. However we have never used any form of adhesive on them but just used the glass to keep the pressure on. We always use a small slip mount on the rear glass to press the points against as pressure is key here.

The disadvantage as Prospero says is the conservation issue of the glass against the art work.

Thanks for your comments, I was thinking of securing with cotton, the same colour as the lasercut, threaded through a small aperture in the back board. I do like the idea of the glass sandwich, this would look really effective! The customer did mention that she wanted a 3d effect. I think I will go down that route.

Pic attached.

Thanks for your help, (don't know how I managed to duplicate the post prospero, but thanks for deleting)

MT

Have look at this threadhttp://theframersforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=10042 perhaps get in contact with the member and ask for more details

Acrylic - preferably the Abrasion Resistant type - would be better for a couple of reasons.

Static will help keep it in place.
Much less chance of condensation - would have to be extreme and rapid temperature change.
It won't break. If the glass breaks that would probably be the end of it, especially if fixed with adhesive.

I've mounted these (types of) things with Melinex overlay (as opposed to encapsulation) starch paste (dots and complete coverage) and melinex straps (itsy bitsy ones).

I'm not sure fixing it to a box of wedges is the best way forward

Very good point pramsay13, back to the drawing board!!

We print for an artist who hand cuts http://www.carolinejaneharris.com/ multiple layers on Archival Matt paper. I believe her framers sandwich/ let sit each layer between glass (some of these are 40x50"), resulting in monstrously large and heavy pieces. I can ask her for more details onthe framing method used.


No need for security hangings.

Wow!! And I thought I had problems!

It would be really interesting to see the framing method used.

MT

Just had a quick chat with the artist.
Front cutting is sandwiched between glass (or acrylic for the larger pieces), then subsequent layers are in between second and back sheet, some times "somehow" tacked to support them... This is then framed.

The way they are cut, and the paper used does retain a small degree of dimensional stability, but, seems there is a secret sauce involved.

Job Done! Thanks for your help, I put 6mm spacers in between the glass and back-board to give a real "Floating" effect. I attached it to the rear piece of glass with 2 tiny specs of dryish spraymount.

I think (hope) the customer will be well chuffed!

Bound to be, looks great.

That looks great.
Wonder how it would look backlit?

Super job

Very nice job

Wow!!! That looks fantastic, excellent work!

unanimous.

Dave

Stunning!

I have just done a red Rob Ryan papercut between glass in a 15mm box frame and the thing I do not like is the shadow it produces on the board at the back. I may need to re-think.