Transfer inkjet printed image directly on to mount board

[Tangent]

Wondering if anyone has ever wanted to do this and if so if they have found a way.
I have used the inkjet transfer paper to put images on to fabric but worried about the ironing process ruining my mount board but will maybe try it out.
Just wondered if anyone knows of any other means of achieving this.

I have included my layout for the intended work below.
The borders for the photographs, which I created in Gimp will be printed onto cartridge paper as will the images of the freesias, the brooch, the house and map and the info from the birth certificates.
The photographs of the people will be printed on to glossy photo paper.
I am intending to fix them all in place on the white mount board which will measure 30 x 30cm with Photomount (please don't all scream at me!)

But I would love the logos showing my grandparents nationalities and interests to be printed directly onto the mount board which is of course impossible.
I can print them onto the cartridge paper if there is no other way but would like them directly on the board.

Also I need to do this and one for my parents and my brother and myself twice! One set for me and one for my brother for his birthday gift.
Any suggestions would be welcome

[Tangent]

Oh and as there will not be an aperture mount but just a simple frame, I need to find some way to hold the glass just off the photographs.
I understand that this should be achieved by fillets although I am still unsure as to what these actually are.

I am concerned that the glued mount board may not remain flat.

[stcstc]

epson wide format printers can print on mountboard

the issue is it generally looks a little flat

so wouldnt print the images on the mountboard

an easier way would be to print the whole thing on nice paper and then dry board to a board

then space it from the glass

[Tangent]

That would be such a perfect solution!
I could print the logos and the outlines to aid easy positioning of the other elements.

But alas I am only a complete amateur and only have an A4 inkjet printer

I wanted the different textures of the mount board itself, the cartridge paper and the glossy photo paper.
But this does mean a lot of careful cutting and careful gluing into position!

Is there somewhere I can get them printed for me as you have explained?
And what is dry boarding?
I can't afford any more equipment at this moment in time.
So could I get this done for me also and what would be the cost?

[Tangent]

I had intended to glue the photographs to white mount board and then cut them with the mount cutter the wrong way round so the bevel goes down onto the border on the cartridge paper.
This would add depth and texture to the finished piece.

It has taken me a whole week to restore the digital images and design the piece so it means a lot to me.

[chris62]

Hi, you can get digital mountboard, not sure what sizes are available tho

[Tangent]

What is digital mountboard?

[prospero]

Printers hate me so no help it that department.

For spacers, get some scrap mountboard and stick a length of double-stick tape along one edge. Leave the release paper on. Flip over and slice strips off, just narrower than the rebate lip of the moulding. Clean glass, put in frame and then peels the paper off the strips and stick them around the edge of the glass. Drop in the artwork and bingo. If the artwork has a dark background, blackcore mb is preferable.

Or..... use a small moulding with a flat top to make little liner inside the frame. Art goes it liner and pinned in as per normal. Glass on top of liner. Then liner+art+glass goes in main frame. If you are lucky the liner won't stick out the back and you can pin it in. If not there are ways, but I won't dwell on that at the mo or I will be here all night. The liner will protrude beyond the rebate lip (sight edge), but this can be made into extra element in the overall design.

There are mouldings called 'slips' that are just flat bits. usually gilded and with a coved inner edge. Not to be confused with fillets. Their original purpose was to act as spacers. Often used just for the decorative aspect, to add a gold inner edge to a moulding that doesn't have one.

[CanvasChris]

Why not laminate the whole print... bond to a board and then frame it... no glass needed.

I could help in the printing department

[Tangent]

I looked up Giclee printing at that size and the whole project would cost me £420 just for the printing!
I began my framing course in order to be able to have the framed pieces I need at a cost I could afford.

I haven't had the money to give my brother a decent birthday present for the past two years and this would be a gift he would really appreciate to make up for that.

I have to admit that to have my work in Gimp simply printed out would be WAY easier than the time absorbing task of cutting all the elements and attempting to glue them in the perfect positions but first off it seems like a cop out and secondly I wouldn't achieve the different textures and depth that I had originally planned for this project.

BUT CanvasChris, to have those colour logos and an outline for the other elements printed to aid my positioning would be great.
The finished size is 30 x 30cm
How much would this cost

I would need 2 each of three different designs
You can email me the cost if that is preferable
lois@colourityou.co.uk

Thanks everyone for the input
I am thinking outside of my original idea now

[chris62]

Why not print them onto gloss canvas, that should look quite nice

[David]

I tried transfer printing some years ago. There is no problem ironing the transfer onto the mountboard, you can put a board into a hot press at 90 C without problem. I wanted to print names onto the board, it worked to an extent although the image is a little fuzzy, compared to printing, the biggest problem for me was the clear areas where there was no image. As there was no ink in the clear areas you still got the film from the transfer printed onto the board. This showed up as a very glossy area in certain light and I found this distracting and ruined the effect. You could cut the offending areas out but then you have to align lots of bits. I ended up putting the names in a window so you couldn't see the edges, so I could have just printed them normally in the first place. I haven't tried it since.

IMG_6786A-detail.jpg

[Richard Photofusion]

I looked up Giclee printing at that size and the whole project would cost me £420 just for the printing!
I began my framing course in order to be able to have the framed pieces I need at a cost I could afford.


The finished size is 30 x 30cm

I would need 2 each of three different designs

Thanks everyone for the input
I am thinking outside of my original idea now

Am I correct in reading 2x3 lots of 30x30cm inkjet prints can be charged at £420? If so, I seriously need to reevaluate my pricing structures. (I do use pigment inks, and papers from Canson, Hahnemuele, Innova etc, all of which can be described as archival, I just haven't had the heart to call them giclee, and charge a %400 premium for a buzz word...)

[Tangent]

Yes! There are some very unscrupulous people out there!

[A3DFramer]

In the early days of the 'pub decor' boom we used to have to put 100's of black and white photocopied line drawings with simple aqua-tint colouring on board prior to framing. This was done with wallpaper paste, it requires some skill to get the wetting out just right and not run the colours. Much of the framed decor we produced, and other businesses like us, survived to be criticized by framers in a later age, but our work was only supposed to last 5-7 years, in the old days of smoking the wall decor in pubs was so saturated in tobacco tar that it was unpleasant, even unhealthy, to handle.

Later we made repro packaging using the same techniques, but pasting colour photo copies onto cardboard cylinders and boxes.

A few years before I retired, the accountants behind the pubco's that had taken over most of the original brewery chains devised a scheme, where all the tenders for new refurbs had to have a quote for the outgoing decor, conveniently forgetting that the original specs were for a 7 year lifespan.

The display cases I made were more robust than others made by the competition, originally only intended to last 7 years, they now get sold on 'Floggit' and other "Antique" outlets.