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Thought that I am usually asking the questions etc that I would post my tip for getting marks off paper and mountboard.
Blu-tac. I use this for my drawing and it works like magic on a number of pencil marks and those little strange marks that appear out of no-where on the mountboard or paper when you're trying to frame it up.
I must point out that this MUST NOT go near photographic paper or the likes as it sticks to it and bingo one ruined photograph.
for mounts a simple plastic eraser - e.g. the staedler "Mars" seems to work wonders for us, also for more stubborn marks, those blue INK erasers provide a useful service.
of course if all else fails there is always the trusty scalpel
Haven't tried blutac but an artists eraser can be rolled up in to a point.
The green 'Mystic eraser is also good (Staedlter?) and those typewriter rubbers that come in pencil form are great for little stubborn specs - you can't buy them any more - as typwriters are a thing of the past, pretty much. But we get them on the craft side with a little brush on one end - used for Pergamano.
dottad wrote:
Blu-tac. I use this for my drawing and it works like magic on a number of pencil marks and those little strange marks that appear out of no-where on the mountboard or paper when you're trying to frame it up.
Sounds like a useful tip, but be careful, because oily marks can result from long term contact between the Blu-tac and the paper. Customers sometimes bring in things to frame, after they have been stuck to the wall using Blu-tac. The oily mark in the paper can be very hard to remove.
robo- i think permango (???) are those hand cut and coloured parchment shapes you see from time to time, used to be brought back from spain from holiday trips a lot, or as lampshades, or maybe its actually the name of the craft of making them.
we did some once in a glass backed frame so the light shines through, and i presume this is where the rubber comes in so handy. I dont know where the brush figures in it though
so i guess any rubber suitable for parchment would be as effective.
Yes, I can understand what you're saying about marks left from blutac on posters. However, this tip was given to a lot of graphit artists from Mike Sibley who uses it all the time. As it isn't left on the paper for any length of time it doesn't leave any marks. Mike's type of drawing style and the type of paper he uses would show up immediately any residue from it. It has similar properties to the kneadable artist rubber but picks up more graphite but without leaving any residue that sometimes occurs with these. It also takes a drawing layer back into the distance which is useful for some type of drawing.
It is also a lot gentler that some of the rubbers which take up a layer of the paper if not used with care.
Cut aperture, hinge undermount, hinge artwork, cut and join frame, move to fitting area, where glass is cut waiting, clean glass both sides, place mounted artwork on top, flip over.
SEE NASTY MARK THAT WAS NOT THERE BEFORE - HOW THE ....... COULD I HAVE MISSED THAT!!!
Lift glass, flick with finger - nope, still there?
Try with small stubby stiff brush - still there?
Try soft rubber - still there?
Try pencil rubber mentioned above - still there?
Try flicking with point of blade - still there?
BIN IT!!
BUT - plain single mounts are a rarity with me, there will be a fillet attached, or a deep bevel, or washlines, double/triple mount - whatever.
But I never EVER see these bleedin' marks until it comes to assembly - why is that?
Hi, I know it wasn't negative, and sorry that my wording seemed that way. Rubbish at explaining myself.
I take on board all the help you guys give out here.
I understand why you would be a bit reluctant to use it on other peoples property when you don't know its ins and outs.
I have faith in it only because as I use it in my drawings and know lots of artists who also use it.
Mind you the thought of using a scalpel scares the living sh*t out of me!!!
That for me would be a recipe for disaster.
But on that note, how would you get marks that are tiny dead beasties off melomine paper? If I draw outside, then these tiny tiny things die on my drawing and so I have to start again....
Any good quality artists eraser, but I would avoid the kneable type. They are for moving graphite about rather than removing and will eventually get so full they will reapply the dirt. Best thing for light marks is a draft cleaning pad (or 'magic sausage' as I call them). It's basically a muslin bag full of granulated rubber. For more stubborn marks you need a 'bristle stick'. (That's what I call them. Not sure of proper name). It's a thing like a pencil with glass fibres at the end that you wind out as they wear. Their real use is cleaning delicate electrical contacts. Best palce to get one is a photographers: most art shops won't know what you are talking about.
There used to be a great cleaning fluid a few years age. 'Art Clean' I think it was called. It was invaluable for getting out oily marks and seemed to suck up the dirt and never left a tidemark. Unfortunately it was withdrawn from the market, another victim of EU heath and saftey regs. I don't know of any similar product that is still available.
prospero wrote:
There used to be a great cleaning fluid a few years age. 'Art Clean' I think it was called... I don't know of any similar product that is still available.
It was probably carbon tetrachloride - also used to dry clean clothes - very nasty stuff but great for removing greasy stains.
I used to work in the graphic arts business - many many years ago - long before we took health and safety seriously - As an apprentice artist I used to have to mix chemicals for the photographic studio in a little room with no ventilation. For the other apprentices a nice little wheeze was to pour ammonia under the door - you had to try and stay in this atmosphere for as long as you could to prove how tough you were. Have to say that my atitude to COSH now is very positive and I dont believe that any regulation that protects the unwary from harm is interfering or bad - I just worry about the stuff that I have been exposed too by employers who new they were dangerous but just didnt care until they were forced to do so.
I don't know of any similar product that is still available.