5" deep moulding?

[Bagel Framer]

Hi,

Does anyone know of a 5" deep moulding to frame a model airplane?!

I've got one of DJS's samples which is about 4" deep from memory.

Just wondered if there was such a moulding out there?

Thanks,

Sean

[pramsay13]

What about a cove box?

[Timh]

I can run some in a raw wood with a matching fillet

pm me

[prospero]

Rose&Hollis do a deep moulding that is machined to accept an extension piece which increases the depth to around 5 inches if memory serves....

You could make a box from MDF or plywood and fit a normal frame on the face.

[Graysalchemy]

I would make it out of mdf or ply as Prospero says. and line it with foamcore and mount board to finish the inside if there is to be no mount.

[A3DFramer]

Sounds like a suitable subject for a picture frame case, glass sides glass front. Popular with the Victorians when they only had brown paper parcel tape to make their cases, with choice of materials and bonding methods today the choice of methods and styles could be limitless.

Following on from Prospero's and Graysalchemy's suggestions I used to make repro Spinks case with 1/4 in. Birch plywood and a 1/2 in. bead moulding in a similar light coloured wood, of a type usually stocked in most DIY stores. Birch plywood is very dense having thinner layers of veneer bonded together and is very strong, asked if it was still available at Wickes, some months ago and the said the could order it in, half or full sheets, 24hrs notice, though I haven't seen it in years. The advantage of this method is the box can be underpinned for and aft, before the moulding is tacked in to the front edge. I used veneer pins to hold in place whilst glue set, removed them and stained and french polished to finish.

There are veneer finished 5/8 in. MDF's that match stripwood to give a suitable overhangs. Readed, barrel, embossed patterns etc. to give a choice. My company made many displays based on this method and they are still surviving 20 or more years later and re-selling in the antique trade.

[Graysalchemy]

I have birch ply machined into moulding, not many companies will undertake it as it ruins blades on spindle machines. I found a cmc company in the end to do it.

[Roboframer]

5" is massive - I don't know of any supplier that does anything close and even if they did, or would to order, I wouldn't want to know about cutting and joining it, not on the Morso & underpinner anyway.

A flat profile mitred on its side to make two boxes that the morso & underpinner can cope with easily is one solution. These two boxes joined together back-to-back will give a back and a front rebate, the back one will take the mounting and backing boards and the front one will take a capping frame.

http://theframersforum.com/viewtopic.ph ... 2&start=20



.

[Not your average framer]

When all else fails, I usually take the easiest construction option and and make up a box section from a standard timber profile and fix it to the back of a normal picture frame moulding using the "Cockoo clock" method with screw eyes and screws holding the rear box section into the back of a suitable framing moulding.

This method is quick, cheap, easy, profitable and requires no special equipment to get the job done. This can be important, as jobs like this easily interfere with your normal work flow and can cost you money as a result.

Apologies to Roboframer for mentioning the "Cockoo clock" method.

[Roboframer]

Cockoo?

It's even quicker with framers points and staples instead of screw eyes and screws .... and it has it's place. But take that violin frame as an example, had I put the box inside the frame instead of vice-versa I would have had to conceal the box, probably with a window mount and with the items so close to the sides of the box, I would have had to make a bigger frame or the window mount would cover them.

[prospero]

Then there is the Quatennbaum (sp?) method.

Mitre a flat moulding on it's back with the rebate pointing up. Then drop another frame into the resultant up-pointing rebate. A bit of packing to make the inside face flush - bingo. Might be pushing it a bit to make a 5" deep box this way though.

[Roboframer]

That's what I did in the link I posted but made another one to achieve the depth and for the mounting & backing boards to sit in.

[Steve N]

Make two frame out of Simons Obec/0105,

Before joining one of the frames, plane off the rebate then join,

Now fit both frames together using pocket screws, using a Kreg Jig (Robo got one I think)

Fill in the joint and then sand back,

Finish however you want.

Used this method last year to frame a bridesmaid flowers

[Not your average framer]

Fill in the joint and then sand back

Some customers are quite happy to have the rear box section covered which gummed brown paper tape, if so no filling, or sanding.

Good old licky sticky!

[Not your average framer]

Cockoo?

The funny thing is I spelt it correctly first time and changed it because I thought it looked wrong.

I suppose it could mean the male of the species? Perhaps not!

[A3DFramer]

I think the name of the Cuckoo is related to the term Cuckold, verb or noun.

[Steve N]

NYAF quoted
Steve N wrote:Fill in the joint and then sand back


NYAF wrote
Some customers are quite happy to have the rear box section covered which gummed brown paper tape, if so no filling, or sanding.

Good old licky sticky!

Think you got the wrong idea Mark, I cut and joined two identical frames (one with the rebate plane off) then I joined the two frames back to back, thus making a frame 14cm deep, so there is a join at the side of the frame, this join was filled and sanded

[Not your average framer]

Hi Steve,

I was talking about a cheap, quick and easy way of finishing off the join.

I offen get customers who want deep box frames, but sometimes at a limited cost. I've good a good hardware shop just across the road, which sells most standard sizes of timber, so I've got a good reason to make it happen, within their budget. So if needs must, then it's licky sticky to hide the join!

[prospero]

Pot of black paint is as good as anything.