Framing Boxing WBC Belt

[Smiffy]

Hey!

Had a WBC 1:1 replica belt in for framing. The belt is signed on one side of one of the straps that would go around the waist, so needs to be framed fully laid out (about 120cm!).

The belt in made of faux leather, almost plasticy and very flimsy, with a heavy cotton edge all the way around. I had a play at using wire through the back of the cotton edge at various points, but it just wasn't sturdy enough. The belt also has about 1.5" of padding behind the heavy brass plated area...

Ideally, it needs wiring behind the brass plate, through the belt then through the mount board to give best stability, but that would mean wire piercing the back of the belt, aomething I, nor the customer want to happen.

Has anyone had any experience with framing belts in this manner? If so, what's the best method?

Thanks!

[Not your average framer]

You say that it looks plasticy, maybe Mylar straps would not be too obvious over a plasticy looking belt.

The heavy brass bit might be more difficult, any chance of a photo? Roboframer usually knows how to do stuff like this.

[Smiffy]

I was thinking melinex straps, but think they would be too visible though. Although the belt material is plasticy (maybe, thin rubbery would be a better description of the material), it's very dull and not remotely shiny.

The belt is identical to the one in my hands here... (Don't have a photo of the signed one)

[Not your average framer]

How heavy is it? Since you say that it is padded, perhaps you could sew it onto mountboard from behind using a curved needle.

[pramsay13]

Sounds like there will need to be some kind of compromise. Is there a buckle at one side and holes at the other? What about using these to hold in place with brass wire, and having it rest against the glass to it keeps it in place?

[An Old Master]

I think that the craft wire solution will work if applied in enough places.

[Kwik Picture Framing]

Who's WBC belt is that?

[Roboframer]

I'd probably stitch it around the black fabric where it joins the green and to make life a bit easier I'd draw around it on the back of the mounting board and then make a parallel line from that the width of the black border. You could do that by hand or use dividers.

Then pre-pierce the stitch holes with a 'T' pin along that line - pairs of holes about 2mm apart and one inch between each pair, that, with button thread should be ample support. Use individual stitches - i.e. tie each one off.

Then any straps and buckles - melinex.

[Smiffy]

No buckles, it's Velcro fastening.

The belt is a 1:1 replica, unfortunately it's not Tysons original or anything haha!

The wings of the belt, flaps what ever they're called, they're easy enough to be secured, but the padding behind the main brass plate really hinders everything and causes the main area to lean forwards. The only way I could think of doing it would be to use craft wire in numerous places along the wings, backed onto black mount board... Then use a couple of strategically placed floating wires behind the brass plate on the top edge of the belt.

Relatively big job! Who'd have thought a bit of padding would cause so many dramas?

[Roboframer]

So the back of the belt sits flat but the problem is the padding between the main plate and it? .... and piercing the back behind the plate is a no-no?

[Steve N]

I would secure the belt as John (roboframer) said, but where the brass plate is cut a matching hole in the mountcard so the padding goes through, thus your spacing in front of the mount does not need to be the full depth of the frame, then put a layer of foamcore (with an hole for the padding) behind the mountcard to add strength, create space behind the foamcore/mount for the padding by adding spacers then your backing will lie flat .

[An Old Master]

Craft wire's the thing !