The Framers Forum

I have just done a search in the forum about mounting cigarette cards, couldn't quite find what I wanted, hence this post. I don't frame a lot of cigarette cards but recently I have had a few.
Cutting the mount is not a problem with the CMC but the customer wants to see the reverse of the 50 cards i.e. glass on back as well AND NO TAPE ON CARDS i.e. conservation mounting

I was thinking about using acetate sheet and making little pockets for each card, then taping the pockets to the back of the mount BUT that sounds very time consuming.
Should I consider cutting a second mount with apertures slightly bigger so that the card can sit snuggly in the cut out, this sitting behind the bevel cut a mount.

I also considered photo corners but this sounds fiddly as well... I guess I'm just after a quick way of mounting cigarette cards ! Any advice welcomed.
Thanks in advance,
Adam/Bagpuss

Back-to- back reverse bevel apertures, the cards sit in the V that makes like this ..

<----------->

This method looks best double mounted - reverse bevel bottom and normal bevel top - the back could be just single rev bev.

You could also encapsulate each to float them (show the whole card) but that would take time as you say. Still, if customer is willing to pay for that it would look better.

We usually use a 90 degree cut single mount, i.e. Not beveled cut to the exact size of the cards. The cards then just sit in the holes with no adhesive

^^^^^^ what Abacus said. Cheapest and easiest solution. Robo's solution would work too but most people are happy with the 90 degree cut and them sitting in.

Put your first piece of glass down, lay the mount face down onto it, fit the cards into the slots (by being able to see the backs of the cards you can quickly and easily check they are in the right order if they are numbered on the back ), carefully place the second piece over and tape all round to seal. Job done

Barrington-Smith sell stamped out mounts to fit different sizes and different numbers of cards in the set of cards. These mounts are the same thickness are the cards and are normally intended to be sandwiched between two pieces of glass. I don't know if these stamped out mounts are made from a conservation quality board of not, so you would need to ask the question.

However, if it turns out that these mounts are conservation quality, sandwiching the stamped out mount between two CMC produced mounts where the cutouts are smaller than the cutouts in the stamped out mount would mean that the stamped out mount would hold each card in position, while the CMC cut mounts would prevent the cards from falling out of the stamped out mount.

If they are to be conservation mounted the 90 degree mount won't cut it as they'll be touching the glass.

Tudor Rose wrote
"^^^^^^ what Abacus said. Cheapest and easiest solution. Robo's solution would work too but most people are happy with the 90 degree cut and them sitting in.

Put your first piece of glass down, lay the mount face down onto it, fit the cards into the slots (by being able to see the backs of the cards you can quickly and easily check they are in the right order if they are numbered on the back ), carefully place the second piece over and tape all round to seal. Job done "

I do the same, except we use plastic on the back, as it will not break when it hits the nail/picture hook sticking out of the wall

Haven't done any lately, but if I had to do some today I think I might cut pieces of Mylar slightly bigger than the cards and place on the backs and then tape them to the front mount. Using the invisible-type Filmoplast (can't remember the ref).

Here's a set I encapsulated to see both sides, they had to be floated as the titles were in the tiny margins. I tried to be flash and do them in one hit in a grid of DS tape using the multi aperture mount as a template.
But positioning them exactly within that grid was impossible.
So I just cut through the tape to make individual pockets and fixed them individually, wasn't difficult and not that time-consuming either.

We do loads of these and supply mounts all over the world. Ababcus suggestion is the best and cheapest to do. We even supply kits excluding the glass which does not travel well.The trick in getting it right is the accuracy of the vertical cut in the mount.

As for fixing, we have a slip mount on the back of the rear glass, normally around 20mm which acts as the pressure pad for fixing the points in. These are then covered over when finishing off with either white or brown gummed tape (25mm) Never had one come back yet.

Roboframers suggestion definitely looks the best, has the best conservation merits and to me is what bespoke framing is about, nothing wrong with the other method if the customer doesn't want to pay for the best.

Robo's job is really nicely designed too!

Jobs like this are one of the reasons why I wanted to get a CMC, but as things are I think I will be retired before I can afford one.