Brush for handfinishing with very coarse bristles

[Not your average framer]

I'm trying to find a brush with really coarse bristles, such as you would find on a snowcem, or sandtex brush, but in a small enough size to be usable for handfinishing. Perhaps there is no such thing, I certainly can't find one, but I was hoping that someone might know where I can get something that fits the bill.

Thanks in anticipation,
Mark

[IFGL]

http://www.dollshouse.com/natural-sweeping-brush-broom

This item has been reduced considerably is price, get it while you can.

[vintage frames]

Try a hair-brush, or a hairdressing supplies, or pet grooming even. Most art brushes take pride in the density of bristles. If you wanted a stiffer brush, you can simply shorten the bristles with some scissors.

[Not your average framer]

Thanks very much for both replies. The item in the first reply is now showing out of stock, Also, being 1/12 gauge, I'm not sure of the actual size of this item and therefore if it will be is big enough to do what I want, but thanks for trying.

Also I already cut brushes down when I want something stiffer, but in the particular case I need something with coarse bristles to get a nice coarse dragged finish.

I have a small left over piece of an old ( possibly 1970's) italian handfinished moulding which I suspect probably came from Euro Mouldings and I would love to be able to reproduce the same style of finish, but I need a very coarse brush to acheive the same finish / effect.

[IFGL]

It's 12 cm x 1 cm would be great for tiny frames

[StevenG]

hedgehogs? I passed a dead one today on the way home, if you're interested I could pick it up tomorrow morning and pop it in the post. No probs

[prospero]

I have a wallpaper paste brush where the bristles are set in a plastic bit - contiguous with the handle. You can cut bits off it to make smaller brushes.


Interesting spelling of the word coarse btw. I once had a roll of laminating film which was stated 'course texture' on the box.

[Not your average framer]

I've put that right now. There was a time when I never would have spelt something wrong without immediately realising it was wrong and have put it right straightaway, but not anymore. That all changed when I have my stroke!

Oddly enough, I can spell the difficult words, but it's the easier words where I sometimes screw up. I could not understand this for ages, but later I had this explained to me by a medical professional lady customer who explain to me that easy and difficult words are processed by two different parts of the brain.

Unfortunately, the continuing saga of my medical problems is still on going and the next thing is that the hospital want to stick a camera down my thoat and up the other end to find out why I have suddenly developed a lack of iron in my blood. Do you ever get the feeling that you have outlived your usefullness?

I wish I could say that I could take this all in my stride, but the whole idea of having to swallow a camera on the end of about 3, or 4 feet of tubing is something that I don't think I can cope with at all. My father and most of his brothers and sisters never survived beyond the age I have a;ready lived to and to be honest without modern medicine it's doubtful if I would still be here either.

Oh well. It's a grand life, if you don't weaken!

[Not your average framer]

I have a wallpaper paste brush where the bristles are set in a plastic bit - contiguous with the handle. You can cut bits off it to make smaller brushes.

That's interesting, I'll have to look out for one of those! Thanks for that!

[IFGL]

I suffer quite badly with dyslexia, if it were not for auto correct I would not be able to make a legible post, often I have to change the word I want to put because auto correct can't work out what word I am trying to put in, it happened in this paragraph.

The frustrating thing is I know when something is wrong I just can't find the correct spelling in my head, it's a case of I know it when I see it, so I feel your pain.

Hope you feel better soon, anaemia makes you feel pretty low.

[Roboframer]

the hospital want to stick a camera down my thoat and up the other end

Just make sure that's the order they do it in.

[prospero]

This is the type of thing.....




* no medical applications thankfully.

[standenfineart]

How about these. Plenty else in their range to consider as well.

http://www.handover.co.uk/Brushes-Brush ... index.html

[prospero]

What about a toothbrush? You can have my old one.

[David McCormack]

I keep all our old toothbrushes! Good for waxing frames with grooves and for cleaning difficult to reach bits on my bicycles with WD40

Those brushes on the Handover link.... some are in inches and some in ml (millilitres) !! Maybe it's better to know how much paint the brush will hold rather than how wide it is

[Not your average framer]

I'm late opening the shop, so I will ready and reply to the latest posts afterwards, but in the meantime, here's a couple of pictures of the left over piece of moulding I would like to copy. I'm not neccessarily aiming to copy exactly the same colours, as I think some variations might be a good thing after and these years since this one was in vogue.

The texture of the dragged finish is not only quite coarse, but it is raised and easily can be felt as well. The moulding is 2 inches wide (50mm). Sorry about the poor focus on one of the pictures, the camera is an auto focus one and if it does not focus properly there is nothing which can be done about it!

BTW, I don't know why, but the picture shows a lot of green tones, where as the colours on the actual moulding are different and include beige, brown and red as well.

Old Itailian handfinished moulding 2.jpg (164.4 KiB) Viewed 15666 times

Old Itailian handfinished moulding 1.jpg (155.84 KiB) Viewed 15666 times

[Tudor Rose]

So something similar to the Brittany range from Arqadia then http://www.arqadia.co.uk/category.aspx?id=255

If you did want to create a coarse brush and you can't find one commercially then I know you are not averse to creating a tool to do the job. Why not make one using thin wire or even plastic rod. You can get both in very small diameter which would allow them to flex against the moulding but be stiff enough to create a drag finish. The plastic rod I'm thinking of is this sort of thing https://www.eileensemporium.com/index.p ... 9&Itemid=9 and you can get it from various sources online or your closest stockists would be Austins in Newton Abbot or the model shop at the end of Queen Street (Newton Abbot station end). You could wrap lengths of wire around a spare bit of moulding to create a "comb" effect or glue plastic rod to a bigger bit of plastic to do the same thing. Just an idea anyway!

By the way, that bottom photo made my eyes hurt!

[vintage frames]

Nice old moulding. Can I ask how you are going to reproduce it?

[Not your average framer]

Hi Tudor Rose,

I might still have to do something like that, but a brush would still be preferred as the bristles will do their own thing a bit and add some natural looking random variations.

[Not your average framer]

Nice old moulding. Can I ask how you are going to reproduce it?

Well, I'll need to experiment a little, but I more or less think that I know how to go about it. The original moulding was obeche, but I'm intending to do this using a couple of economically priced pine mouldings from Simons. Neither of them are the same profile as in the picture, but that doesn't matter.

The missing paint areas are quite simple. The initial base coat consists of two layers, both containing the same colour of chalky emulsion. The parts where the paint needs to be removed after wards are a mixture of the chalky emulsion and wheat starch paste and then a layer of chalky emulsion mixed with a little acrrylic medium is added on top.

The starch paste retains it water content and as a result the paint layer which is on top will dry before the layer below if you use a heat gun to deliver a moderate heat. After this using the hot air gun on a higher heat will turn the water content retained in the areas with the wheat starch / paint mix into steam causing that area to bubble and detach it's self from the wood below.

It is then a simple matter to remove the detached paint by scrapping it away, but before this is done all the other colour are added on top and the detached ares are removed as the last action. The acrylic medium added to the second layer of chalky emusion adds flexibility to this layer when re-heated, so that it scrape away more easily, while still hot. As always, non of this stuff is all that difficult, once you know how!