legal doc mount

[markw]

I had a very curled legal document in for framing - it had to go in a box frame and no adhesives to be used.

I have done these before using ribbons on the corners to hold the document in place - but this one had to be a little more robust as it had been rolled up in a tube for years - complete with seals and various folds it just didnt want to flatten out so the curl would have to be tamed to an acceptable level.

I had just finished using some artcare linen finish mountboard - right colour linen got me thinking if I could use the mountboard instead of the ribbon then I could get a robust fastener to hold the reluctantly flattish document in place.

This is the point where having a CMC comes in handy - cutting reverse bevel slots in the mountboard so that a strip of linen finish board could be fed through - (1.5mm x 9mm slots). 8mm strips of linen cut so that the bevel runs away under the cut to minimise any visible white board showing. I am sure you could cut this by hand but the cmc allows you very fine control over the cut size and positioning. with the linen positioned across the corners of the document you have a very strong fastening - yet no adhesives touch the document.

The result was very pleasing with the document retaining some of its curl but sitting naturally within the frame - had I used ribbon I would have been concerned that the forces present would have allowed the document to slip - the more rigid linen board presented a similar effect but with far stronger hold on the document.

[Roboframer]

A way of avoiding any adhesive, but the thing is standing up on its own with no support, which is not recommended.

I'd mylar/melinex (achival polyester film) encapsulate or overlay it.

I'd never heard of encapsualtion before The Grumble - and still have never heard of anyone doing it over here - it's easy and effective.

Search for it on TFG - reams of info.

[Moglet]

Any chance of a pic, Mark?

[Not your average framer]

I'd never heard of encapsualtion before The Grumble - and still have never heard of anyone doing it over here - it's easy and effective.

That's surprising. I had always assumed it was a standard practice. I learnt to do it while working with bookbinding and antique manuscripts.

It's just so easy! I use two pieces cut straight off the roll and quite a lot larger than you really need. (This is so when you've finished you've finished and cut-off the waste, all your greasy fingermarks are on the cut-off waste).

Use the side which is wound inside on the roll to face the artwork to avoid any contamination from the outside of the roll (gressy fingermarks, etc).

Lay your artwork face down in the middle of the first sheet (only handling the Melinex around the edges.

Weight the artwork so it stays put and apply a border of archival quality adhesive transfer tape or finger lift tape to this first piece of melinex allowing plenty of space around the artwork, but with all the greasy finger marks outside of the taped area.

Fix the second sheet of melinex to the first along one edge and hold the artwork in place by finger pressure through the second sheet while removing the weight and replacing it on top of the second sheet of melinex to still keep everthing in place.

Carefully fix the second sheet of melinex to the other three strips of tape and trim away the excess melinex with a scalpel.

Without moving the artwork or the weight, fold each side up and around the sides of the artwork, while rubbing down to flatten the foldline with a bone folder and taping each folded down side into position with scotch magic tape.

When complete it can be hinged to your under-mount sheet as per normal and your excess melinex can be discarded together with any greasy finger marks. I like to use a finger lift tape with an acrylic adhesive, because it's so easy to get things nice and flat. I leave at least one inch clearance between the tape edges and the artwork.

It doesn't take long to do! I haven't seen how others do this, so there may be other methods too!

[Roboframer]

I haven't seen how others do this, so there may be other methods too!

Oh yes!

For a kick off - use cotton, or even latex gloves - prevention being better than cure.

It's late - use the Grumble search facility for 'encapsulation'

Don't know how you can assume it is standard practice when the required materials are not available from main suppliers - no names (LION!!) - or when there has never been a topic here on it or an article on it in any trade mag!

Mark's solution is a result of that lack of information - and without the information and support of a proper trade body etc etc etc - is a very good solution - it won't cause harm.

[WelshFramer]

I like to use a finger lift tape with an acrylic adhesive, because it's so easy to get things nice and flat. I leave at least one inch clearance between the tape edges and the artwork.

Don't you find there's a risk of the artwork moving inside the package if you leave a large clearance?

[Roboframer]

The clearance is generally about 1/4" from the artwork with a mount aperture about 1/8" away, therefore concealing the tape.

A thin ATG tape is recommended, such as this

[WelshFramer]

NYAF says he leaves at least 1 inch -- seems a bit risky to me.

I did frame some sheet music and encapsulated so I could have it floating (plus it was in poor condition). First time it slipped down within minutes of completing the frame. Second time I used a square inch of Herma Archival dots (Lion 6277) on the back of the shet music. Worked like a charm.

[Not your average framer]

NYAF says he leaves at least 1 inch -- seems a bit risky to me.

I did frame some sheet music and encapsulated so I could have it floating (plus it was in poor condition). First time it slipped down within minutes of completing the frame. Second time I used a square inch of Herma Archival dots (Lion 6277) on the back of the shet music. Worked like a charm.

I think you've misunderstood what I meant. The melonex is folded back on it's self, around the artwork - There's no space around the artwork for any movement so nothing can slip. The one inch space is precausionary for isolation between the artwork and the D/S tape.

I Hope that explains what I was trying to say.

[Not your average framer]

Don't know how you can assume it is standard practice when the required materials are not available from main suppliers - no names (LION!!)

True, but I got mine from when I was a bookbinder from a bookbinding supplier. You can get it from conservation suppliers too! My assuption was not based on anything particular, although it was discussed during time spent training. I was just surprised that it's not common practice when you don't want to add attachment directly to the item, etc.

[ross]

Can I ask one question about total encapsulation - is it likely to cause the item so enclosed to be subject to condensation when it is within a frame unit

Old legal documents are penned in old inks - if the mylar is in contact with such inks, is there any chance of the inks running? How do you stop such contact?

Ross

[Roboframer]

You don't!

Encapsulation means contact back and front, the encapsulated thing however, is then spaced away from the glass.

You may also encapsulate something that is on poor quality paper that will outgass - in this case you can do an 'overlay' i.e. only the front is covered in polyester film, and the back is a preservation quality board - artcare would be good.

If in doubt don't do it - either don't float it and mount it in the normal way or float it and hinge it with 'S' hinges passed through the undermount.

It (encapsulation or overlay) may be safe anyway - depending on the amount of space from the glass - hopefully a non-rookie encapsulator will share here.