The Framers Forum

I'm making a box frame for some Clay tile baby prints a customer has brought in of her little ones, I was thinking about sticking them onto a backboard using either Hot Glue or Silicon Adhesive ? Has anyone used either before to do this ?

Thanks in advance,

Adam TPF

I would steer clear of hot glue.

Rather than silicone I would go for sticky foam tape. It probably won't last forever but probably longer than you think. And as it is thick you can remove the tiles if required by slipping a blade in the gap and sawing though the tape.

If they do happen to drop you can always stick them back.

We have done a number of different types of these.

Some were a true circle...whereby we cut a circle in the mountboard on which they are to be mounted...allowing them to sink mount and stick directly to the backboard..

If irregular shape....we still cut holes in the mountboard behind the cast / tile (out of sight) so that we are attaching to the solid board underneath instead of just onto the mountboard surface.

We have used Silicone for lighter ones and Tec 7 for heavier ones (laid flat & weighted overnight to fully set)

Instead of 2mm MDF backing board , we would use either 4mm MDF or light plywood , onto which we would PVA the mountboard (brushed on.....not laid down as a bead...as the location of the PVA bead can be visible thru mountboard)



Cheers
Tom

Whenever we need to stick things down, which will pretty much always be down to one of these two things -

1. cost or ...

2. the mounting method being too visible -

- we don't feck about, we use stuff that does what it says on the tin - like a two-part epoxy resin or Evostik "serious stuff"

Usually no need for a sink mount, yes, the surface paper of mount board can come unstuck - score it and peel it off.

Then we'll bond the mounting board to the backing board - default backing (5mm foam board or artback) if not heavy and correx or cross-braced correx if heavy - maybe in addition to the default backings if really heavy, but no ply or thick MDF here. Rigid does not have to = heavy (or a total pig to cut).

Mmmm, that's quite interesting. Would I be right in assuming that this "Evostick serious stuff" is an impact adhesive? This is the first time I have heard of this adhesive, so please excuse my ignorance.

Do you apply this adhesive to both side of the joint, let it dry and then bring them together, of just apply it to one side and stick it all together.

How long do you let it dry before glazing and sealing the back of the frame?

I don't use silicone at all, as I don't like the stuff very much, so this sounds like something I should be trying.
Thanks

I think I've mentioned it a few times here - I just saw it one day in B&Q and thought with a name like that it had to be worth a go!

Anyway - it's all here http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1504117.pdf bar the bit about how long before sealing the frame. Stuff that I have to stick, with anything like this, I usually leave overnight, sometimes just a few hours though; according to that link it's fully cured in 17-24 hours.

Thank you very much, that sounds like something I should be trying at the next suitable opportunity.

Thanks all for the tips, I'll try and remember to take a photo and show you what I did.
Cheers, Adam TPF

Always use a natural curing silicone.
Doesn't release acid as it cures. But does require leaving overnight.

If stuck to mount and need to removed we cut/score around the item so a single layer of mount comes off with the item. Peel the paper thin layer off and the silicone usually comes away as a single blob.

Well I had a trip to B&Q yesterday and bought some of that Evostick Serious Stuff, I used this with a couple of strips of double sided foam adhesive, belt and braces I left some weights on top of the tiles over night and it seemed to do the trick, here's the finished frame. Thanks for the advice .

Looks good Adam