The Framers Forum

How do you do it so it doesn't pull away from the board when you yank a moulding off? I've bought a roll of the stuff and I'm trying to stick it to MDF panels. I've only tried PVA so far, and may not have left it long enough to fully dry. I don't really want to use contact adhesive because I'm trying to do it on 6x4' panels - I can see myself putting an unremovable crease in it.

Sisslings in Dublin supplied me with my chevron boards. I have a sneaking suspicion that they used something like Evo-stick to glue the fabric to the MDF. I've done a couple of non-critical bits with PVA, and found that it wasn't worth a light for holding loop fabric to a board.

Not saying it can't be done, just that I've had no success with it.

I did some once using 2" carpet tape applied in strips. This allows you to peel off the tape backing one strip at a time . I will need a lot of tape on a big board but you won't have to contend with wet glue. This tape is exceptionally sticky and stays sticky, so if you do lift it you can smooth the bump down again. I don't use these boards anymore, but I did find them while clearing out my shed just the other day and the tape was still sticky and holding the fabric.
I think I made them about 20 years ago.

Hmmmmmmmm, as it happens I have some carpet tape. I was thinking of using it to hinge double mounts (only joking!), well actually I've been tacking rogue corners on carpet tiles with it - I'll give it a go in the morning

Hi Steve & Áine,

In this case it's a question of technique. The problem is that you are joining two absorbent surfaces, both of which have to absorb enough glue to penetrate into both items to be joined, so as to produce an adequate bond between the glue and each item. However, a consequence of this can be that so much is absorbed, so as to not leave enough glue at the point of interface while the two surfaces are bonded.

So, the board needs a penetrating and sealing coat of PVA, which is followed by further coats until the surface of the board is so saturated that it no longer keeps on absorbing the PVA into the surface. This is best applied with a small paint roller.

When the surface of the board is so saturated that it no longer keeps on absorbing the PVA and there is a good even coat all over the surface, then the fabric can be applied and smoothed down. The fabric I used came from Lion and has a foam backing layer, which absorbs the glue without the glue coming through the fabric.

It is a PITA job, I think we all find it so! (Mine are still fine after three years use).

Do you mean narrow strips of velcro stuck on the MDF? If so I hope you have the 'stick' and not the 'sew' - if what you have is not s/adhesive, run strips of ATG down the board and then apply the strips of velcro ..... then ......................

Staple it every 5" or so - the velcro on your samples are stapled as well as stuck - yes?

Or, go to carpet right/allied carpets/whatever, with a piece of velcro and see what's going in the offcuts dept.

It won't stick to quality (high wool content) Stick the carpet of choice (high nylon content - CHEAP) to the board with builders PVA and add staples ad-lib too - they'll sink and disappear into the carpet.

Use the nasty foam backed stuff - you know, the stuff that when you try and remove it from the floor needs scraping off - and that's without builders PVA!!

Not your average framer wrote:The fabric I used came from Lion and has a foam backing layer, which absorbs the glue without the glue coming through the fabric.

I've got the same.

How long did you leave it to dry with the final coat of PVA?

Robo: No, it's two metre wide loop fabric, six metres in length - thats a lot of staples.

Edit: Just to make it clear, its not the stuff that usually goes on the back of mouldings (hooks), it's the sheet stuff that it sticks to.

TWO METRE WIDE VELCRO LOOP??? Is it branded 'Velcro'?

Give us a link!

I think what you have may be known as 'Plush' and if so, you're better off with cheap carpet - check fire regs though!


Edit - is this what you mean?. This is not 'Velcro' just fabric that velcro 'hook' will stick to because it has a 'loop' pile, just like most, if not all ..... carpets! But nothing like as deep and stiff as loop velcro.

It's 'Plush' - you can buy carpet just as grippy if not more so, thicker, sticks better with no seepage, same fire level plus can be stapled as well, not that you'd need to.

You can also get 'Plush' and many similar fabrics, from, wait for it, a fabric shop.

Roboframer wrote:TWO METRE WIDE VELCRO LOOP??? Is it branded 'Velcro'?

Oops, no, it's 1.25mtr, 50" wide. It just seems bigger when you're trying to maneuver it........

Spit wrote:How long did you leave it to dry with the final coat of PVA?

Hi Steve,

It wants to dry overnight. Also I don't use the builders PVA, it's too thin! I use the woodworking, it's nice thick stuff!

The other stuff is just watered down.

More water, less glue = less bond strength.

Thanks for tips, NYAF!!

I echo that, off to Jewsons in the morning then! No doubt I can find a use for the other 4 litres!

Cant help with positive suggestions but I can tell you that dry mounting doesn't work either. I recall that Merlin had a good suggestion in an earlier posting using hooks.

Yep.... We gave up with Velcro / carpets / whatever moulding chevron hanging system you call it..

In the end our 'flat wall' which turned into 3 carousels we used the following from LION

http://www.lionpic.co.uk/index.php?sess ... uctid=1413

Very good

Roboframer wrote:is this what you mean?. This is not 'Velcro' just fabric that velcro 'hook' will stick to because it has a 'loop' pile, just like most, if not all ..... carpets! But nothing like as deep and stiff as loop velcro.

It's 'Plush' -

Down here most framing shops use a product called 'frontrunner' which is probably the same as this one that Robo mentioned, The best glue to stick it down is EVA.
The hooky part of velcro is attached to the back of the moulding corners.

Just back from exhibiting at the new Art Fair Europe in Germany. Over 3000 framers and galleries came to look at 220 exhibitors over 4 days. Not bad for a new show from a standing start.

The fabric is brushed nylon, with a loop pile. I'm told it's similar to that which is used to make carpet slippers. Velcro is the leading brand name for the strips of loop pile and hook pile.

The reason you need something like PVA glue for the long term is that the nylon fibres only stick to the face of DMT or any sticky tape. PVA actually wraps around the fibres, holding the fabric firmly as it dries. Same applies to the foam backing. Sizing the board first is helpful, then roller on the PVA. Two people should hold the fabric and gently lower it into position on the panel. That way you avoid stretching it, which can distort the finished texture. Smooth it down gently with your hand, but don't press so hard that the glue comes through to the surface.

Martin,
PVA usually doesn't hold permanently whereas EVA lasts much, much longer!

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I'm about to glue some of the 'brushed nylon' fabric to MDF boards so I'm looking for reassurance!

I've sealed the MDF with diluted PVA and I have some builder's PVA for gluing. The fabric is the stuff with a thin foam backing, so I presume this rules out any contact adhesive, carpet adhesive spray etc.

Does anyone have any more feedback on PVAing this stuff? Does it stick long term?

Thanks!

I use spray on contact adhesive, stretch the fabric over and then staple on the back for good measure.

Just done 3 boards like that and never had a problem in all my years of doing it.

I always find that pva or copydex always soak into the fabric, contact adhesive doesn't. I also use the fabric from arqadia as it is foam backed as well.

Never had any success with the self adhesive stuff either.

Thanks Grays, do you use carpet adhesive type spray?