Spraying frames - interim solution

[GeoSpectrum]

I'm going to be investing a a spraying setup this year, depending on when I can get an out building extended and converted. So in the meantime I'm wondering if the Wagner W550 HVLP spay (page 84 of the new Lion catalogue) might do the job. It is sold as suitable for spraying coatings onto canvases but I'm wondering if it might be able to deal with paint? Does anyone have any experience?

Thanks

[vintage frames]

It's good to hear you are going to invest in a proper spray set-up. In the mean time I think that the spray device you mentioned is a bit of a waste of money and for "hobby" use only.
If you are going to spray frames then the first thing to realise that you're going to need quite a bit of elbow room to get around all the frame sides, or have a generous sized turntable. Then, without a spray booth, there is the problem of over-spray despite the claimed HVLP.
And then it's the question of why you would want to spray paint. If it's to create surface build, then you're going to need a substantial primer before using a finishing coat.
A better use of the spay gun would be to spray nitrocellulose laquers. These give a very high build and can be burnished to a glass like finish. They do however require efficient air extraction from the spray booth.
Otherwise the best use of a spray gun for a framer is to spray natural gesso.

[GeoSpectrum]

Anything is better than rattle cans. perhaps surprisingly getting good results, just a bit pricey.

[standenfineart]

I wouldn't agree with the negative comment towards rattle cans.
In the right application they can be very effective. I often use specialised graffiti paints which are designed to be UV stable and weather resistant. There are almost unlimited shades available exactly repeatable from job to job and no waste as there is from mixing quantities of conventional paint so as to avoid running out mid-spray.
If the right cap is selected the quality of finish is excellent with minimal over spray. Many of these paints are now acrylic based which means they can stand over painting with brush washes of conventional paints. Acrylic-nitro-alkyd mixes are also available.
I find them especially useful towards achieving a fully sealed and smooth coating to bare or gessoed wood before applying oil gilded finishes or as a finish to modern profiles.
Most times I will choose acrylic spray made by Kobra from graffcity - at £2.99 per 400ml which goes a long way - I would not consider that expensive.

[Framie]

Yep I will second professional spray cans (not b&q stuff which is expensive and can be rubbish).
I can custom colour match and I spray many frames, spacers, mounts or fillets with very good results.

Does take a bit of skill and a fair bit of 'light' sanding in between many coats with wet and dry.

I have a separate space with extraction/filter and I also wear a mask.

Looked at HVLP for undercoating but the pro units that are up to scratch are not cheap at all.

[GeoSpectrum]

thanks for the pointer to Graf city. I've just ordered three cans to try. Those are good prices so I'm hopeful the paint will be OK.

[standenfineart]

The key to these paints is to shake until your arm falls off and then shake some more.
Sometimes a new can will accumulate pigment at the base of the outlet tube which can jam a fine cap. I find that an initial purge through a fat cap may be needed to get the can to flow properly. Acetone is useful to clean caps of any blockage should that happen.