The Framers Forum

I thought I'd share a little tip that I discovered recently after getting very frustrated with filling waxes that are fiddly to use and rarely match the frame you need to fill. Not to mention expensive!

I got a tube of decorators caulk from B&Q, and a small selection of student quality acrylic paints - yellow, orange, Paynes grey, white. I also got a packet of empty plastic storage pots for 3 quid at Hobbycraft.

Mix a large dollop of caulk with some white acrylic (around 70/30) for the base, and then mix with other colours until you have a perfect match. It's really easy to apply with a small palette knife, excess wipes away easily with a damp cloth and it doesn't shrink. I've used to to tidy up some pretty horrific corners caused by a batch of warped/twisted moulding.

I find yellow/orange and a touch of grey makes a perfect light oak (a colour that can be tricky to find a filler to match), and it keeps pretty much indefinitely in sealed containers.

I've built up a few different colours for common frames and they can easily be tinted for one-offs.

Hope this helps someone!

Thanks for the tip

Yes, this works well, I've been doing the same with fine grain polyfilla and acrylic, I use mostly plain Obeche so use a bit of titanium buff which I find matches quite well. Well enough to paint over anyway.

One question how horrific are your corners that you have to fill them? If the wood is that badly twisted don't use it, send it back.

There is always the odd occasion, don't use it that much though.

One question how horrific are your corners that you have to fill them?

I had a bit of a problem with a batch of small light oak frames - flat with a deep rebate. The lengths had a very slight warp along their length - it wouldn't be a problem on bigger frames as it would all pull back into line, but on these 30x30cm frames, there always seemed to be one corner with a gap.

It was probably the fact that it was such a light wood that exacerbated the problem - it stood out like a sore thumb. The filler resolved it perfectly.

The odd gap is a fact of life, I thought this was a far better solution than messing about with waxes so thought others might like to try it.

Well done if you never get a gap, you truly do lead a very blessed life.

The answer is probably spending the value of a family car on a saw and underpinner

I'm sure it probably is, but in the run-up to Christmas, I thought perhaps people might be reluctant to spunk 10 grand on new kit when they could spend 10 quid at Hobbycraft and achieve perfectly acceptable results.

Was sending the warped stuff back not an option?

My point Glimpse is that if you have horrendous joints you shouldn't be trying to fill them if they are that bad, well I wouldn't and I am only a lowly commercial wall candy framer.

So am I reading this correctly.Most of you never get any gaps in corner joints at all.Warped moulding excepted...

"Most of you"? I'm not seeing more than one person posting anything that you could read that in to.

Personally I work on prevention being better than cure but of course sometimes a bit of filling is needed - if the gaps were "horrific" I'd sort out the problem that caused it though and that would include tossing the moulding.

I agree with Robo. My machinery is perfectly set up and constantly adjusted to maintain good joints. Most bad joints do occur due to warped wood. If that's the case I don't use it or I cut round it.

There are certain mouldings or ranges which I don't use because I know I will have problems.

I believe that my customers are paying for a professional job and that's what they get even the cheapest contract job will look perfect.

I've just remembered why I don't visit this forum regularly... I thought I'd offer what I thought might be a useful tip, but it seems my help isn't welcomed by the resident know-it-alls.

So I'll trundle off back into my workshop - kitted out, I might add, for less than half the price of my best racing bicycle - and continue to make a very comfortable living doing what I do.

Well said Glimpse...................

Aw c'mon FHS, - looking through your posts some "know it alls" have been very helpful towards you - and you didn't even reply to the tips on the how to mount a bottle topic.

.

Sure, I came here to ask for help, so I thought I'd offer something back in return. I was hoping to update the bottle thread next week when I had the samples, and had thought that a post discussing something a little bit more challenging might be of use, not only to myself, but to others as well.

But I think I'll use my time more constructively in future and leave you lot to brag about how much you've spent on chop saws.

Glimpse I am not bragging about the investment I have made in my business, anyone with a modicum of business sense would understand that it is paramount to invest in your business to ensure you get the best out if your business. The type of work I do I could not do with a morso and a foot underpinner, quite a lot of bespoke high street framers use expensive saws because they give a better cut and joint.

I am sorry that you feel us know it alls have spoilt your thread. We too were just offering our experience. You made a comment about horrendous joints which to me I felt I needed to investigate why your were having these difficulties. Prevention is better than cure.

Glad to see that you are making a good living let's hope it continues.

Just for the record, I asked a simple and pertinent question and got no reply, my second reply was in response to 233art's exaggerations.

Let's imagine we're all in a pub, let's call it The Open Corner... I come in after a hard day framing and say "hey guys, I've got a really handy little hint to share with you all..." and proceed to tell the guys at the bar, some of whom say "cool, I'll try that", or "yeah, it's similar to what I do but I might try your way, thanks!"...

Then some smart arse chimes in with "The answer is probably spending the value of a family car on a saw and underpinner" (I'm guessing here, but probably accompanied by a really smug, self-satisfied grin), I suspect most people would probably roll theirs eyes and think "what a prick"...

Then, if the same know-it-all said something along the lines of "I believe that my customers are paying for a professional job and that's what they get even the cheapest contract job will look perfect", people are quite rightly going to start getting a little bit p*ssed off, because you're implying that anyone that has to fill the odd corner-gap is not professional, and their work is not perfect.

The reason I'm pointing this out is because there are one or two people posting here who clearly spend far too much time stroking their own egos on the internet and not enough time developing social skills.

And on that note, I'm off to the pub!