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Oversized Mount/mat boards
Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 11:59 am
by Grahame Case
customer just brought in a picture 150 cm x 60 cm, and would need it mounted with borders of 10cm
so roughly 170 x 80 cm, 67" x 31.5"
the question is, are there large format museum or conservation quality boards available in this size? and who would be able to cut it?
Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 12:52 pm
by prospero
I have had this prob before and I could not find a board bigger than 60" in the U.K. Even if you could, you have the logistical prob of actually getting the stuff to your door undamged. Sending a couple of sheets by carrier........ I don't think so.

The biggest manual moutcutters will take a 60" board but in this case you need to do a 60"
cut. Not sure if any CMCs will do a window that big (??)
One idea.

Rose&Hollis do a flat moulding with a bevel. (refA231). It's only 70mm wide though. But you could make a 'mount' using this moulding and panit it. Cover the back with barrier board.
Best I can come up with.

Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 2:38 pm
by JFeig
Have you checked with either Nielson Bainbridge or Crescent - they both have distribution in the UK. They both have 48x96 4 ply rag in white, at least here in the US.
Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 2:46 pm
by JFeig
Bainbridge items
8661 = 48x72
8662 = 48x96
Crescent items
2263 = 48x72
2273 = 48x96
Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 4:37 pm
by Moglet

Jerome, how do you cut apertures in boards that size?
Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 5:07 pm
by JFeig
cutting an aperture (window) in any board that is larger than the capacity of a mount (mat) cutter is done by dis-assembling the cutter. The bar and cutting head are positioned for cutting. A second framer holds the bar in place (or clamps) while the cutting head is operated by the framer in the normal fashion. I cut from the verso side (back) just as when using a fully assembled cutter. Don't forget to place a scrap sheet under the board where the cutting is being done. If 2 positions are necessary to cut a single line, I dip the blade into the first cut to position the board to the cutter(alignment) prior to clamping and cutting.
Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 6:18 pm
by Tam Lin
When oversize mounts are required, we achieve a similar result to Jerome but without the inconvenience of dismantling the machine.
We use a heavy 48 inch engineers' staightedge and a Logan 2000 hand-held mountcutter. The straightedge can be slid along a pencil line as needed, whilst the Logan remains engaged in the board. It is helpful to have two people on this job, but I have done it single-handed. Any length can thus be cut.
The resulting bevel is indistinguishable from a machine-cut one.
Dave
Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 7:17 pm
by Roboframer
Nielsen Bainbridge do a super jumbo board in alpharag artcare only (I think) and in white .... or white.
They'll also only sell a pack of 25

- doubt if a distribuor would carry them.
Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 7:35 pm
by Not your average framer
prospero wrote:Rose&Hollis do a flat moulding with a bevel. (refA231). It's only 70mm wide though. But you could make a 'mount' using this moulding and panit it. Cover the back with barrier board.
I've done it that way, but it a PITA to do, like never again if it's something massive. These days I avoid stuff like that.
John's (Robo's) suggested pack of 25 sheets jumbo mountboard would make life a lot easier if you've got the space to cut a mount that big. The remaining sheets could be cut up for normal stock after you are sure you won't need them.
Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 7:41 pm
by Roboframer
Yeah, but at about £20 a sheet it's some outlay!
Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 8:13 pm
by Grahame Case
i don't think its going to be worthwhile taking on this job, it'll be a real outlay for all that board, and a real PITA to do in our workshop... perhaps when we rejig it and get the new extension on the proteus bench.. but not just now,
Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 8:33 pm
by Not your average framer
Roboframer wrote:Yeah, but at about £20 a sheet it's some outlay!
Crumbs, I didn't know it would be as much as that!

Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 8:39 pm
by Roboframer
Another option would be a splicing and fabric wrapping, Grahame.
Posted: Sat 12 Jan, 2008 8:43 pm
by Grahame Case
Roboframer wrote:Another option would be a splicing and fabric wrapping, Grahame.
ooh good idea John, shall mention it to the relevant parties. of course its going to be hideously expensive no matter what course of action we choose,
although i get the feeling the customer won't like the price we give him.
Posted: Sun 13 Jan, 2008 12:50 am
by Moglet
Thanks to Jerome and Tammy for the tips on cutting "jumbo apertures"!

Posted: Thu 17 Jan, 2008 7:16 am
by gesso
on the occasion when a customer has contacted me with this size of mount required ive given them the option of using a wooden mount covered in paper / thin card. Rose and hollis do a slip- like moulding that once chopped and joined has the profile of a beveled mount all thats left to do is either paint it or cover it in fabric or paper. Cutting a large mount in the way suggested earlier IS a two person job. Ive been doing this for twenty years now and if pushed will just abount manage it on my tod
Posted: Thu 17 Jan, 2008 5:34 pm
by osgood
gesso wrote:on the occasion when a customer has contacted me with this size of mount required ive given them the option of using a wooden mount covered in paper / thin card.
Wood and paper don't have much in the way of archival properties!
Posted: Thu 17 Jan, 2008 5:36 pm
by Moglet
Presumably, Gesso, you could line the back of the painted/wrapped moulding with conservation 2-ply board?
Posted: Thu 17 Jan, 2008 6:00 pm
by gesso
Moglet wrote:Presumably, Gesso, you could line the back of the painted/wrapped moulding with conservation 2-ply board?
Yep 2 ply, 6 ply strips attached with a good archival adhesive
Posted: Thu 17 Jan, 2008 6:20 pm
by osgood
According to the people who know much more than I will ever know, 2 ply is not enough separation. You really need 4 ply minimum.
Another lurk you could try which would offer better protection than 2 ply is to use Mylar/Melinex for the barrier. Very thin and totally impervious to acid.
No matter what you use, you still can't stop the 'outgassing' from wood in the frame package!