The Framers Forum

or whatever they are called.
Some of the expensive mouldings with these concave/spoon/overhanging back (I really don't know what they are called) are absolute pigs to cut even with sharp blades.
As you will probably know as the blades cut through the wood the under side of the "overhang" splinters and breaks off, especially if they are made of pine, and leaves a messy splintered hole that has to be filled in.
My question is, is there a way to prevent this happening and if it does, what is the best way to fill the holes, smooth it off and finish the corner to an acceptable degree.
Some of the really expensive mouldings with good mitres can look dreadful on the back edges if you don't do a proper job on them.
What are your tips?

I used tape worked firmly into the recess or on occasion blue tack or plasticine to fill the recess where the cut would be. A complete pain, which is one reason why I got a mitre saw. No problems now.

With mouldings like this I always go for chop service. Costs more upfront but saves you time and therefore money in the long run. LJ, Lion and Wessex all offer this and saves a lot of sweat and swearing!

Mouldings like this were never designed to be cut on a Morso, that's why cutting then on a morso is not such a great ideal. I sometimes re-size old frames like this, to be suitable for other pictures. I do this even on frames which also have victorian era, or earlier really brittle guesso and compo ornamentation. I do it with a 48 teeth perinch razor saw, which has an 8 thousandths of an inch cerf and I don't wreck the gesso on the frame either.

Use the right tools for the job and it will be a lot easier. It's a very fine toothed saw and progress, when cutting a large moulding is extremely slow, but it gets it done.