The Framers Forum

Hello
After some guidance please.
I have a customer who has several acrylic paintings on boards and they would like them framed in tray type frames with a gap to give the impression that they are "floating" in the frame.

They have chosen quite a deep tray frame and wish the paintings to be the same level as the top of the frame, if that makes sense! My query is how is the best way of building up the level of the painting and how would you affix the whole lot in the tray frame. I thought about using some foam core board but uncertain on how best to fix in the frame

Would be interested to hear how it's done.

Thank you in advance.

Cliff

This type of moulding will make the job a little easier than building up an existing profile: https://mainlinemouldings.com/index.php ... goryID=650

There are lot of ways of doing this as no doubt many different framers will be happy to show their own particular methods. I 'm probably a bit of an odd ball in this regard. If I can, I am more likely to trim the tray frame to the same height as the canvas, in preference to wasting time trying to pack the canvas out to the same height as the frame. I'm a big fan of the method illustrated in the back of the Rose and Hollis cataloques were the side moulding has a rebate at the rear and a flat fillet moulding in the rear facing rebate.

This technique not only works with their own special mouldings, but also works with a normal flat moulding cut and joined on it's side. I'm always trying to make use of what I have already got available on hand and this works well for me. As I already have a table saw and an electrical surface planner, I have no objections to cutting the side moulding down to size and planning the cut surface smooth to get the right tray height rather than pack out the painting to the same height as he moulding.

It's quick, it's easy and does not require any extra expense of providing extra materials to pack the painting out. As most regular visitors to this forum already are aware, I am already producing a substantial amount of the output as hand finished work and as a result, I am not disturbed about making good anything which has been trimmed down. Maybe you might also be happy to do a little bit of stacking pieces of moulding together and hand finishing the end result to make the overall job look just right.

I hope this is helpful to you, but I expect a few others will be able to advise you of other solutiona as well.

https://www.lionpic.co.uk/p/41485/50mm- ... e-Moulding
You can adhere the board to the middle section and raise the outer lip by adding a frame to the outside.

It's an interesting looking moulding. How well does it cut on a Morso? It's a reasonable size of moulding at not too bad a price as well and I'm quite interested in getting some myself. I would guess that it has a few other interesting uses, besides the more obvious uses. It might look good as part of a stacked moulding frame. I did not know that this sort of profile was available as a bare wood moulding.

Thanks guys -very helpful.
Cliff

Wooden spacers (PAR) strip wood from b and q.DS foam backed tape to secure.

What type of boards are they? How thick? A some stage they will require attaching to the frame and they will require
gluing something wooden to the backs so that a screw can be inserted to join them to the frame. This can be a subframe
(smaller than the board) that will also serve as a spacer to bring the to the required height. It is a little bit naughty as it will
technically 'alter' the artwork. But there isn't really an alternative if that's what the customer wants.

I sell many tray frames and floater frames, with and without spacers and not once has an artist worried about altering the artwork. It’s got to be secured somehow.

The canvases are all on 18mm thick stretchers, which will be attached to the back of the tray by screws fitted from the back. The artwork will not be altered in any way.