The Framers Forum

I don't like dry mounting and were it not for artcare restore I'd like it even less.

Cheap prints and posters go like a dream but some photos can be tricky - orange peel effect etc.

Now I've got a big job and a sample I did (see 'glass-spacer-glass' etc) thread has bubbled. Now I don't know if that was because the thing was left in direct sunlight in the back of a car and reversed itself (the photo - not the car) or if I did something wrong.

All I do know is that I don't want a red face on such a big job.

The photos are all easily replaceable and I'm guessing the hotel I'm doing them for will even want them changing in the future.

Photos will be about 20x24" average and close framed (then that frame mounted within another)

Thinking self adhesive foamboard is the way to go - probably Bainbridge.

Anyone use this type of stuff a lot? Any tips like the use of a roller etc?

John,
I use a similar product all the time. It's on a much stiffer foamboard than Bainbridge. I don't like Bainbridge foamboard because of it's 'softness'. However I haven't seen their adhesive product.

I use a 'ringer' to apply the print to the adhesive and the only time I have had a stuff up, it has been 'operator error'!

It is very quick and very easy to do! I just fold back about one inch of the release paper and position the print exactly in place, then press it down on the exposed adhesive. It then goes into the ringer and the release paper is peeled off as the whole thing is rolled between the rollers.

If I had the job that you have, that's how I would be mounting the prints!

Hoping you'd be around Ormond.

So - something like This would be useful?

John,
I use scanstick (Moorman) because it's what we can get down here. I start like Ormond peeling off 6cm or so, position the print and I use a fat rubber roller but if the photo surface is high gloss I cover it with a paper (the edge of the roller leaves a slight line in datk areas) and basically roll blind as I peel off the rest. Sounds hairraising but have'nt yet had a problem and have never seen a bubble. Don't know the exact name but the fat soft rubber roller used in the graphic printing process (for inking up a plate) should be perfect.

Aha - well, I already have a larger version of This which of course is much cheaper.

Maybe another option is sub all the dry mounting out to someone - save me some stress!

Roboframer wrote:Hoping you'd be around Ormond.

So - something like

Yes, John!
I have a similar thing but it is manually operated with a 'crank handle'. Mine is about 900 wide, and I wouldn't want one any narrower.

Personally I wouldn't want one that was run with an electric motor. It isn't necessary for my type of business and the hand operated one has a better feel!

Mine is quite old and was well used when I got it, but still does a great job.

Roboframer wrote:Aha - well, I already have a larger version of ........... which of course is much cheaper.

That will work, but slower and not as easy and could be more risky than a ringer!

No John, those rollers are too hard. the 'fatness" I was talking about is 7-10cm. Mine is about 7cm in diam and rounded edges. Inherited it from my dad who was using it for photography about 50 yrs ago.

Make sure you tell her to bring the photos flat - The only problems I've had with photos on SA board is when they come rolled in a tube.

I'm sure Lion will do a manual one - they definitely do a bigger electrical one - up to 44"

and that was with the same brayer roller, Robo!

Roboframer wrote:I'm sure Lion will do a manual one - they definitely do a bigger electrical one - up to 44"

Hotpress were doing a massive discount at the spring fair on one of theirs, I was tempted....

Wish I'd not thrown out my Gran's mangle now!

And me... a bit big for my likkle workshop though

Hi Guys
I love Spits old mangle Victorian? Clip art or is it yours? I have an old 1950/60s one with rubber rollers which attaches to the bench works well.
Roboframer
When I have a problem with an air bubble, I prick the bubble with a pin entering at an angle (this limits the pin hole showing) then back into the mangle or heat-seal press and most times the bubble goes.

Just some information for you on cold laminators available from

WWW.framersequipment.co.uk

Manual laminator Code ML25 - £199 + vat

b]Jet Mounters [/b][/code][/code]
18" - £549 + vat Electric
26" - £629 + vat Electric
44" - £1575 + vat Electric
54" - £2099 + vat Electric
63" - £5250 + vat Electric

Framers Equipment can offer 5% discount on machines as well as 10% off all the boards, films and stands etc.

MITREMAN
"Roll over lay down"

Robo

I guess the bubbling problem is because neither the photo nor the saturate is porous. Leaving it in the press for longer -- 10 or 20 minutes - might help?

By the way, have you been on a Hot Press training day? Well worth it, and you could always take a sample photo to mount.

The Hotpress 25" cold laminator (rollers) is great !

I use it for all "standard" photos. There is a great instructional DVD available from Hotpress as well as FREE workshops.

I would'nt mount photos onto s/a Foam Board as it tends to crush.
Colourmount do a nice 2mm Ph Neutral S/A Board.
Infact most producers provide something similar

Anothe rgood reason for cold mounting photos is you dont need to worry if it's a real photo or Printed at home.
Some of the home printed digital images dont like the heat in a vacuum press

Hi Welshframer,
Hotpress Training is well worth it.
I have demonstated Heatsealing and dry mounting many times.
I have also been on Hotpress Training and intend to go again soon its good to keep updated with new products and methods.

"As they say knowledge is power"

Hotpress Training available ...... 27th Mar, 12th Jun, 15th Sep, 4th Dec
Download from www.framersequipment.co.uk
...... Application Form (140K pdf)

MITREMAN