The Framers Forum

Good morning, everyone.

I wonder whether you could advise on hand finishing, please.

I have made a rim out of bare wood (pine) for an oil painting. The frame needs to be be painted to suit the artwork, but should I worry about getting paint inside the frame's sight edge (i.e. where the artwork touches the inside of the frame)?

My concern is the paint on the frame offsetting onto the artwork's edge where it touches. Should I just be careful when painting the frame (and wipe off any that strays inside the sight edge), or is it better practice to mask the inside of the sight edge before painting?

As to paint, I was thinking of emulsion straight onto the wood, the putting on 'Dead Flat' to seal it and make it more robust and cleanable than just emulsion. Or would acrylic paint be better. Grateful for any advice or observations.

Many thanks,

Paul

That's an interesting thought. I only use water based paints myself and don't find this a problem. To be quite honest, I don't tend to give this issue much thought. Not all, but some of my hand finishes have a finishing coat of wax, which may act as some sort of barrier. Many framed artworks include glazing, which also prevents contact beteen the frame and it's contents. Maybe adding a slip mights be a smart move. It is not usual for me to mask the sight edge. It will be interesting to hear what Prospero thinks about this.

Many thanks, Mark.

I will try to be careful not to get the paint inside the sight line area, but just wondered whether people masked the area as a matter of course/good practice.

No masking here, if its a canvas you can use the volará foam rebate tape to keep the canvas away from the wood. Lineco aluminium rebate tape is also good for preventing paper works from coming into direct contact with the wood.

Much appreciated, Justin.

Hope all is well; sounds like you are thriving...long may it continue.

No tape here, but i do wipe around the rebate with a cloth.

If you start to use finishes like the liberon gilt creams, you need to give it plenty (24 hours plus) to dry. I always wipe around rebate after applying that as you can get tiny "clumps" that look like nothing but can get onto artwork.

Nick

You will get a build-up of paint along the sight edge. I use an old knife and sandpaper to clean up the
edge when it's dry. It's important as any lumpy bits can press on the glass/canvas. If it's a stacked frame
then it will sit together more snuggly.

Emulsion paint is fine if you want a washed-out look. I use artist's acrylic for a more solid top-coat, after building
up 2-3 coats of primer and filling the grain pores.

What prosperous said,

I've never needed to worry about this issue at all. I work with 13mm wide glue brushes which I find ideal for my way of working. The brushes are fairly lightly loaded with paint and because I rarely get significant amounts of paint anywhere it is not wanted, clean up after the paint has been applied is not usually necessary. Occasionally I get a little paint on the rear face of the moulding and this is lightly sanded away with a sander to get a really clean and neat looking rear to the frame.

I do my best not to spend any time, or effort in needing to make thngs good, so any paint getting in to unwanted places, could results in extra work and therefore added cost. I struggle to do things as easily as before having my stroke, so I figure that prevention is better than cure. Those who attended my hand finished framing course will remember that I was also working in much the same way then, which was long before I had the stroke. I have a definite emphasis on working at speed as those who came on the course will be able to confirm.

Speed wise I can still work pretty fast, even after my stroke. As many will have noticed "quick, simple, and easy" regularly get mentioned as a significant part of my way of doing things. Bearing in mind, that I am able to do much of this since having had my stroke and although there are certain methods which I have decided not to use since my stroke, as they are too work intensive. The work I still choose to do, I can still do at a pace, which would cause a few jaws to drop. Much of the thing about speed and accuracy is all about technique and practice.

Pactice of course is all about repitional and lots of it, while pushing yourself to create quality work at speed. There's a lot of comittment, determinaton and drive if something matters enough to want to be good at it, but when it all comes together it's verysatisfying. I'm still pushing! Sometime I intend to have an open day and surprise those who come with some real coffee and some speedy hand finished framing dems. I'm not joking!

Many thanks, everyone - great advice

Ooops, double post.