The Framers Forum

Didn't have enough moulding to frame two small pictures so have chosen to use another moulding that is a bit shabby chic and have painted acrylic titanium white over it. However, it's a really chalky finish compared to the original white moulding that the customer chose. It would have been easier to get more moulding but I can't take time off work to get the moulding. Any advice? I guess the original chosen moulding has a very slight gloss to it (very slight). Any advice would be great on what to put on top of the acrylic. Thanks

Unless it's just me, the big pot of titanium white I have got does not seem to brush out very smoothly at all. I am more likely to use zinc white, but covering power of zinc white is really all that great, but at least it brushed out on to a surface a bit more easily. Amsterdam acrylic paints do quite a nice Titanium buff dark, but for some strange reason titanium buff dark seem to be less coloured than their titanium buff light. A lot of different white acrylic paints, don't seem to be as ideal to be working with as I often would hope.

Some of the various white in the Craig and Rose Chalky emulsion paints are a bit more to my liking as they brush out and flow a bit more nicely. I'm a bit of a fan of mixing Craig and Rose chalky emulsion, with Similarly coloured acrylic paints. This a good way of getting a full bodied paint which dries silky smooth and has good durability, but also distresses in a easily controlled way.

It might be worth showing it to the customer as they might prefer the chalky finish to the gloss one. It would depend on whether the chalky finish is stable or not though, you wouldn't want it flaking off.

Have you waxed it after painting. Liberon black bison neutral wax is the one i prefer. 2 coats and a good buff will give some sheen which may get it closer to the original.

Nick

Ooo! That's interestiing. Black wax over white. I'm not sure what that looks like. Something for me try when I get the chance!

Nick was suggesting neutral black bison wax.

Black patinating wax over white paint can work if you want to emphasise grain pattern or brush-marks. I did one with crackle glaze that worked quite well. It comes out a bit of a dirty grey colour - so if I was doing it again I don't think I would start with white paint!

Not your average framer wrote: ↑Wed 15 Jun, 2022 8:06 am Ooo! That's interestiing. Black wax over white. I'm not sure what that looks like. Something for me try when I get the chance!

"Black Bison" is the brand Mark. It comes in various colours. But you knew that.

Well, not quite! It's not one that I have ever used from the Black Bison range so far. I do used quite a lot of the neutral coloured Black Bison wax to mix acrylic paints into! I produce quite a subtile effect when you can wipe it on and wipe it off and when it looks right you just set it with the hot air gun. Lightly brushed obeche mouldings painted with a basic colour of paint and then with the subtily colour wax rubbed into the lightly brushed texture can very oftem look quite interesting. It's something which I sometimes do with stacked obeche mouldings. I like a bit of shape to my obeche main mouldings, but I'm careful about costs when producing stacked mouldings, by the time you have added up the overall cost of all the mouldings which you have stacked together, there's a risk that this might eat into your profits.

A very slight and subtile hint of colour on to a slip, or fillet can be quite a tranformation, while adding a little extra with to the moulding at the same time. I never tried this with a hint of black before at all. Reds and greens, yes, but greys and blacks are somethig which I've never traied. I get a reasonable amount of left over bits of fillets to use up and these ofter get used as square shaped sips, or bits to build out the depth of the rebate with. It's quite a useful technique for me. There's about half a dozen useful and helpfully priced nicley shaped obeche moulding which I like to use and these can look rather grand with the side view depth increased and nice subtile slips include with them. When I have time on my hands, I will ocassionally knock up a few of these. They often will sit in the shop window for a little while before they sell, but they still sell never the less.

These always look very nice and I price them to look really special. I always get my best sales volumes in the times when tourists are about. and these times depend rather a lot upon what the weather is like. Sales when it's raining are generally more, or less non-existant and I have too take my oppertunities when I can. As a result the profit which I am able to get per item is a very important thing and good worthwhile profit levels an important survival factor. I suspect that this will be especially true in The coming recession.

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Oh, I sorry about that. I appear to have completely miss read that, I do that from time to time since my stroke, I don't know it happens, it sometimes just does. Fortunately it only extremely rarely happens. Now we are back on the same page again!