Hello from the Hebrides!
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Hello from the Hebrides!
Hello Framers Forum! I'm Christine Morrison of Shadow Studio. I've joined this forum as I have a problem with a bench end guillotine, I've posted in the HELP! section, hoping someone out there can indeed help. I am a visual artist on the Isle of Lewis - drawing, painting, printmaker and artists' bookmaker, I've just completed my new build studio and was given a bench end guillotine to help with my paper cutting for printmaking and artists' book making. Unfortunately, it isn't earning the space it takes up in the studio just yet, but, hopefully, this will change if anyone out there can help. Many thanks in advance
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Re: Hello from the Hebrides!
Welcome to the Forum Christine!
Justin George GCF(APF)
Insta: georgetheframer
Insta: georgetheframer
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Re: Hello from the Hebrides!
Hi Christine and welome,
This might not be an easy question to answer. Not being able to examine the said guillotine, it is probably best to try asking a few questions to see if helps us to understand what is the cause of the problem.
First of all can you confirm that the guillotine is complete with no parts missing?
Next how big is the gap caused by the clamp not closing properly?
Also what is the bottom surface of the clamp bar made of and is there any residual adhesive of this bottom surface of the clamp where an extra clamping strip of some additional clamping strip once may have been fixed in place?
It is not always necessarily the case that the clamping surface would be a smooth piece of metal, but it may be meant to be a non marking and suitable gripping material compatible for use with the materials that you wish to cut on this guillotine.
Generally bench end guillotine are mostly used for cutting picture framing backing boards such as perhaps 2mm thick MDF, to quickly cut to size mountboard and similar materials.
So the next question is what materials are you intending to cut when using this guillotine?
It might be that there should be a clamping strip in place under the guillotines clamping bar which is now missing and we need to work out what will be satisfctory to replace it with. Choosing the right material for replacing a missing clamping strip will depend upon the size of the open gap and the types of materials that you wish to cut.
If you can answer these questions, perhaps this will help to take things further. BTW, I am an ex-engineer and have my own bench end guillotine, so have a good idea what to expect.
Mark.
This might not be an easy question to answer. Not being able to examine the said guillotine, it is probably best to try asking a few questions to see if helps us to understand what is the cause of the problem.
First of all can you confirm that the guillotine is complete with no parts missing?
Next how big is the gap caused by the clamp not closing properly?
Also what is the bottom surface of the clamp bar made of and is there any residual adhesive of this bottom surface of the clamp where an extra clamping strip of some additional clamping strip once may have been fixed in place?
It is not always necessarily the case that the clamping surface would be a smooth piece of metal, but it may be meant to be a non marking and suitable gripping material compatible for use with the materials that you wish to cut on this guillotine.
Generally bench end guillotine are mostly used for cutting picture framing backing boards such as perhaps 2mm thick MDF, to quickly cut to size mountboard and similar materials.
So the next question is what materials are you intending to cut when using this guillotine?
It might be that there should be a clamping strip in place under the guillotines clamping bar which is now missing and we need to work out what will be satisfctory to replace it with. Choosing the right material for replacing a missing clamping strip will depend upon the size of the open gap and the types of materials that you wish to cut.
If you can answer these questions, perhaps this will help to take things further. BTW, I am an ex-engineer and have my own bench end guillotine, so have a good idea what to expect.
Mark.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Hello from the Hebrides!
Hello Mark, many thanks for taking the time to reply.
I'm assuming that all parts are there, it certainly looks complete. It's fixed onto 25mm ply which is then screwed down to the top of an AO plan chest, so the unit isn't able to move during use
The underneath of the securing arm has a continuous strip of 3mm dense black foam, so not marks are left of the paper/card
When I close the securing arm there is not a gap at the back end of the arm but as you come forward from about 40cm away from the front edge the gap begins and is about 2mm at the front edge. When I test with a piece of 200 gsm cartridge paper, moving it from the back to the front edge, the paper is held securely and cannot be slid out until I get to about 40 cm away, then I can slide the paper freely under the arm
If I place a piece of 2mm greyboard at the front of the securing arm between the two bars (ie below the arm that has the lever attached to the top and the lower arm that holds the paper to be cut), this closes the gap, and there is even pressure all along the arm, so maybe that will be a fix, but I was wondering if there is an adjustment at the rear of the arm that alters the angle of the arm? Not sure if this is making sense, but I'm wondering if when it was serviced the unit was reassembled correctly, hence the request for a photo of the rear assembly.
I intend to cut 2 - 3mm greyboard, up to 250 gsm cartridge paper, which is when the problem showed itself as I was cutting a stack of paper (about 10 sheets of 160 gsm) and it slid away from the blade, not a good look for the edges of a book
Usually I would cut each sheet of paper by hand, but, there is always a small variation so the machine cut would be ideal if I can get it to stop shifting.
Thanks again for your time
I'm assuming that all parts are there, it certainly looks complete. It's fixed onto 25mm ply which is then screwed down to the top of an AO plan chest, so the unit isn't able to move during use
The underneath of the securing arm has a continuous strip of 3mm dense black foam, so not marks are left of the paper/card
When I close the securing arm there is not a gap at the back end of the arm but as you come forward from about 40cm away from the front edge the gap begins and is about 2mm at the front edge. When I test with a piece of 200 gsm cartridge paper, moving it from the back to the front edge, the paper is held securely and cannot be slid out until I get to about 40 cm away, then I can slide the paper freely under the arm
If I place a piece of 2mm greyboard at the front of the securing arm between the two bars (ie below the arm that has the lever attached to the top and the lower arm that holds the paper to be cut), this closes the gap, and there is even pressure all along the arm, so maybe that will be a fix, but I was wondering if there is an adjustment at the rear of the arm that alters the angle of the arm? Not sure if this is making sense, but I'm wondering if when it was serviced the unit was reassembled correctly, hence the request for a photo of the rear assembly.
I intend to cut 2 - 3mm greyboard, up to 250 gsm cartridge paper, which is when the problem showed itself as I was cutting a stack of paper (about 10 sheets of 160 gsm) and it slid away from the blade, not a good look for the edges of a book

Thanks again for your time

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- Posts: 11008
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- Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
- Location: Glorious Devon
Re: Hello from the Hebrides!
Hi again Christine,
Is there an adjustment for the spring tension on the clamping lever to enable the front of the clamping bar to close to gap at the front. This is likely to be the best way of adjusting this gap, if such a adjustment is available. Beyond that possiblity, I don't have much else to suggest!
Is there an adjustment for the spring tension on the clamping lever to enable the front of the clamping bar to close to gap at the front. This is likely to be the best way of adjusting this gap, if such a adjustment is available. Beyond that possiblity, I don't have much else to suggest!
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sat 01 Oct, 2022 9:56 am
- Location: Outer Hebrides
- Organisation: Shadow Studio
- Interests: Visual Art, Sailing, Walking the dog, reading
Re: Hello from the Hebrides!
Is this an adjusting bolt? It is under the table at the front under the front spring