Printing on mountboard

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Of framing styles or techniques that rocked your boat, and also of those that didn't
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The Crofter
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Printing on mountboard

Post by The Crofter »

Just been trying to print onto mountboard using my Epson R2400. Seems to work well providing the board is cut square and fed correctly. Naturally the paper surface is not designed for inkjet printing but set to plain paper the quality is pretty good. Board is 1400 micron. Picture is a 600 dpi scan of A4 board, then reduced to 500 pixels wide for posting. Actual quality is of course better.

Image
Pat
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Post by Moglet »

Pat, Slater Harrison do a range of mountboards specifically for use with inkjets. Have a look on their website: there may be more details there. :)
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The Crofter
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Post by The Crofter »

SH website not very helpful. Inkjet mountboard is mentioned briefly but colours & quality info nowhere to be seen - well not with these eyes anyway......

Still nice to know that good results can be obtained from conservation board so I do not have to stock yet another range !. What I need to do is start looking at washes & decorations for inspiration. How people decide what style to use is currently beyond me :?
Pat
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Post by prospero »

S'funny but I have been puzzling how to print onto mountboard. I want to do amount with a line around that breaks into a script title at the bottom.

I though of printing onto suitable paper, drimounting onto board and then hope I can cut the window parallel with the line. I think as long as the printing is geometrically sound that would not be a problem. :) The mount is 20x16, too big for my facilities, but a M8 of mine has just got a Cannon A2 size printer. heheheheheeee. :lol:
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Roboframer

Post by Roboframer »

prospero wrote: I though of printing onto suitable paper, drimounting onto board and then hope I can cut the window parallel with the line.
Er, cut the title aperture and then draw the line around it, or am I missing summut?
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Post by kev@frames »

colourmount do an excellent ink-jet self adhesive conservation quality paper and board. Your colourmount supplier should have samples if you ask.
Roboframer

Post by Roboframer »

kev@frames wrote:self adhesive conservation quality .
Roboframer

Post by Roboframer »

kev@frames wrote:self adhesive conservation quality
Sorry for double post - meant to preview but pressed 'submit'

Anyway - a contradiction of terms.
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Post by Moglet »

Roboframer wrote: Er, cut the title aperture and then draw the line around it, or am I missing summut?
It's a question of printer registration, John. It can vary slightly from print to print. The 'print first, cut aperture after' method would allow one to measure the exact distances of the lines from each side of the printed sheet of mountboard. There still remains a potential problem if the printed matter - washlines, say - are not completely parallel with the sides of the board.
........Áine JGF SGF FTB
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Roboframer

Post by Roboframer »

OIC - the lines/washlines are printed.

I was thinking lines done by hand around printed text in an aperture.

Calligraphy anyone? :D

I can do parrallel lines that split around a text aperture v easily by hand.
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prospero
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Post by prospero »

Image

I did this once before using letraset and drawing the line in matching colour. The letraset stuck to the glass. (this is that job I have had for 18yrs. :? )

I couldn't do the script by hand with a gun at my head. :shock:
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osgood

Post by osgood »

Speaking of calligraphy (as someone on The Grumble was too) check this site out: http://www.iampeth.com/books/real_penwo ... index.html

The one in the third column, eleventh row down is drawn with a single line.....extraordinary.

I bet John (Robo) could handle that easily with one eye tied behind his back! :wink: :wink:
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Post by WelshFramer »

I use an Epson 4800 and generally print on Colourmount - either white or one of their off-white or cream boards.

I normally set up the job in Photoshop. I create an image the size of the finished mount and print the image with an outline all round. I print this onto an oversized piece of board (an extra half inch all round) and then trim to the outline. This way I know that registration will be perfect.

Then I cut the opening(s).

I suspect it's not a good idea to cut the openings first: one because of registration problems and also because of the risk of the print head hitting the board.
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Post by kev@frames »

Roboframer wrote: Sorry for double post - meant to preview but pressed 'submit'

Anyway - a contradiction of terms.
Simply stating what it said on the packet.
You having a bad day or something?
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Post by Framerpicture »

WelshFramer wrote:I use an Epson 4800 and generally print on Colourmount - either white or one of their off-white or cream boards.

.
Can you get icc profiles from Colourmount?
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Post by kev@frames »

dont know :( maybe if you PM keith he could tell you.
Roboframer

Post by Roboframer »

kev@frames wrote: Simply stating what it said on the packet.
You having a bad day or something?
I understand that big names stating self adhesive things are totally reversible with water have been taken to court in the US - and lost.

FATG standards may say that things with the adhesive already applied, whether activated by pressure or by wetting, are 'conservation quality' but that's just one of many reasons I'm not a member - and I don't like the term 'conservation quality' either. Or 'Museum quality/level'

Always having a 'bad day' BTW :roll:
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Post by Moglet »

Framerpicture wrote: Can you get icc profiles from Colourmount?
Arqadia also do inkjet-able boards, and they also provide ICC profiles for them. Check their website for more details.
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Post by WelshFramer »

Framerpicture wrote: Can you get icc profiles from Colourmount?
I doubt it, but I've just bought a Spyder3 Studio (http://spyder.datacolor.com/product-pp-s3studio.php). Give me a little while to get some practice with it and I'll be able to offer a profiling service.
Mike Cotterell
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