The Framers Forum

Hi

I've done two frames recently with multiple apertures, with photos in all windows.

On one frame, space was tight so I stuck the pics all the way around. They cockled.

On the next, I just secured them at the top. Customer felt the mount was 'coming away' - he's right, the mount isn't sitting flush.

Can i ask what people usually do here? If i fix them all to the undermount instead, how would you secure them? Two hinges, ph70 tape? Or something at the bottom/ corners as well?

Thanks
Megan

If hinged they should be fixed to the under mount, and however and with whatever you would use, were it not multi aperture.

A multiple platform mount will solve your problem beautifully though and the actual mounting needs no lining up, they just drop in to their apertures.

Very easy with a CMC of course, but if you can cut the actual multiple aperture mount, you can also cut the platform mount, using the multiple aperture mount as a template.
It’s best with apertures cut at 90 degrees and you could actually just use a straight edge and s Stanley knife as over cuts don’t matter.

You do have to make sure each fallout goes back in to its own aperture though - to make that easy just draw some squiggles over it before cutting.

Here’s one I did earlier


viewtopic.php?t=10864




….

girlfromkent wrote: ↑Tue 23 May, 2023 10:38 am Can i ask what people usually do here? If i fix them all to the undermount instead, how would you secure them? Two hinges, ph70 tape? Or something at the bottom/ corners as well?

T hinges using a gummed tape or better. If possible without getting adhesive on the work, the window mount can be stuck down to the undermount with EVA. Backboards usually have a slight curve to them, sometimes just by making sure that the curve faces inwards, this can be enough to put pressure on the undermount from behind. It's a difficult one, mounts do not always sit flush as we would want, for various reasons like cockled work/slightly warped board.
A platform mount would be ideal. Speaking of which here is my maths/platform mount nightmare today, the outside tickets vary in width between 46mm and 52mm... I might just have to bite the bullet and float them instead!

I think they'd look much better float mounted.
But that's just me.

@girlfromkent sorry to hijack your post, very rude!
@vintageframes, yes I do to. The original floated costing was too much for them and now it's all paid up for window mounting I think i'll have to float and suck it up and put it down to the cost of learning!

"As you were..."

Justintime wrote: ↑Wed 24 May, 2023 2:11 pm T hinges using a gummed tape or better. If possible without getting adhesive on the work, the window mount can be stuck down to the undermount with EVA. Backboards usually have a slight curve to them, sometimes just by making sure that the curve faces inwards, this can be enough to put pressure on the undermount from behind. It's a difficult one, mounts do not always sit flush as we would want, for various reasons like cockled work/slightly warped board.
A platform mount would be ideal. Speaking of which here is my maths/platform mount nightmare today, the outside tickets vary in width between 46mm and 52mm... 20230411_135903 (2).jpg
I might just have to bite the bullet and float them instead!

What would you use to stick them down with?

Thanks

They'll be floated by attaching a slightly smaller fallout, using a white gummed paper tape on four sides, top tight, the other three looser. Then dropped back into the fallout hole and taped at the back.

I would (left to my own ends) deffo encapsulate them, they'd still be floated but would all be in apertures ever so slightly larger than the paper.

Can you explain? Encapsulated as in mylar?

Yes, like this

viewtopic.php?t=12417

Yes but 25 of the tickets that look the same size are all different sizes, we're pretty sure now that mounting won't work as the type positioning is different on all of them to. They should have been put in the bin straight after the concerts!

Every single one could be different, it’s just a normal multi aperture mount with the apertures made maybe 2mm larger than the ticket.
Then encapsulate and position/fix individually, you could do them in groups of the same size like I did too and cut through the tape between each.