The Framers Forum

Quite a few manual underpinners can be persuaded to join thicker mouldings by manually pulling the overhead clamp up by hand.

My Cassesse CS79 will lift up another inch or so! All that happens is the pedal comes up a bit higher too. No doubt Cassesse would argue that it's not designed to be used like that, so perhaps it might be unwise to use it like that with hardwood mouldings. Better to be safe than sorry, I think!

Any more "Not a lot of people know that" tips?

I was told long ago that float glass has a right and wrong side - the wrong side which is apparently face down when it is made is ever so slightly coarse and appears a little hazy at times. What I do to get it spotless is dip a wad of paper towel in a bowl of Vim (fine white powder which is a kitchen product for scouring pots) , give both sides a good rubbing down and then clean with Mr Muscle and paper towels. Many a customer has tapped the glass to 'check' if there is really glass in the frame.

fineedge wrote:I was told long ago that float glass has a right and wrong side - the wrong side which is apparently face down when it is made is ever so slightly coarse and appears a little hazy at times. What I do to get it spotless is dip a wad of paper towel in a bowl of Vim (fine white powder which is a kitchen product for scouring pots) , give both sides a good rubbing down and then clean with Mr Muscle and paper towels. Many a customer has tapped the glass to 'check' if there is really glass in the frame.

Must try that. Unfortunately, I don't think we can get Vim here any more. It was very popular when I was a girl more years ago than I'm letting you lot know!

good info finedge
I suppose this explains why glass always seems to need more cleaning on one side than the other of the marks sometimes left by paper interleaving?



Heres one: (I dont know why it happens but its taken me years to notice it) how come styrene seems to have morestatic when you peel of the platic when its cold than when its warm?

Hi Alan,

As you say the two sides of float glass are not the same. There are electro-optical instruments produced to help glass trade professionals tell which is the tin side. It seems that many glass bonding products don't work quite as well on the tin side.

For those who may wonder what this is all about, float glass is made by pouring molten glass on the top of a bath of molten tin. One end of the bath is a few degrees cooler which allows the glass to solidify while the tin remains molten. The finished glass is pulled off from the cool end of the bath and cut to size in a continuous process.

so is there a "good side out" rule of thumb?

kev@frames wrote:Heres one: (I dont know why it happens but its taken me years to notice it) how come styrene seems to have morestatic when you peel of the platic when its cold than when its warm?

Electron mobility improves at higher temperatures, which enables the charge to disipate faster. It's why electronic valves and cathode ray tubes (television tubes) need heater elements to be able to work.

Ah! So I'm not having tactile hallucinations when I think one side of the glass is smoother! That's a relief!!!

fineedge wrote:What I do to get it spotless is dip a wad of paper towel in a bowl of Vim (fine white powder which is a kitchen product for scouring pots) , give both sides a good rubbing down and then clean with Mr Muscle and paper towels.

I remember Vim! It was good stuff, but as Mary says, it seems to have disappeared off the shelves up here (along with the likes of Ajax, Tide, Toffee Treets, Callard & Bowser's Toffees, Mint Cracknel and Coffee Walnut Whips.... But I digress.

Mr. Muscle's glass cleaner is a very good off-the-shelf cleaner: used to be my weapon of choice before the shoulder injury, but I'm delighted that Dermot introduced me to Ebor's spray glass cleaner which is excellent, and as good as Amway's SeeSpray, but not as smelly.

Vim!

My uncle mistook it for Andrews Liver salts once.

He went clean round the bend

(sorry)

Wot no Ajax?

I use the muscle stuff because many other products here are ammonia based and my nose doesn't take that too well.

Replacement for Vim - colour restoring car polish or metal polish. They both have a mild abrasive and will give you the result required. Cant say I have noticed this phenomenon on all glass - and i would send back any glass that needed that degree of cleaning. It is a technique that I use on antique glass - normally to remove years of smoke deposits.

Wirewool and lighter fluid brings olde glass up to a sparkling shine.

[quote="Not your average framer"]Quite a few manual underpinners can be persuaded to join thicker mouldings by manually pulling the overhead clamp up by hand.

Hi Not Your Average Framer,
Just a note of caution Lifting the head up manually may cause the pedal cable to come off the pulleys below, so I would not advise this method.
Bear in mind Cassese have made a modifications to the top bar and presser to over this problem.

Act carefully and stay safe

MITREMAN
www.framersequipment.co.uk

MITREMAN wrote:Just a note of caution Lifting the head up manually may cause the pedal cable to come off the pulleys below, so I would not advise this method.
Bear in mind Cassese have made a modifications to the top bar and presser to over this problem.

Act carefully and stay safe

MITREMAN

Ooops, Egg on face

Hi Mitreman,

Thanks for the warning.

To date I haven't had any problem doing this, but my CS79 does have a bend bit of metal which stops the cable jumping off the pulley, which I presume is the modification.

Sorry to others, my intentions were to post some thing helpful, but I was not aware of any problem in doing so!