The Framers Forum

Good Afternoon,happy Sunday,

When needed I prefer to make my own spacers from matching mountboard and foamcore.(3,5 or 10mm)

I’m cutting by hand with a Stanley and ruler

However If I require over 100 cm length and narrower than 8mm I find it a bit challenging to keep them perfectly straight and parallel especially if foamcore needed is 10mm

Any thoughts ?

Thanks Neal

I made my own from the same stuff - but not 10mm foam board, would show too much if just a rebate spacer??

I used a CMC, anal accuracy, previous a wall mounted cutter or mount cutter. What works now I've flogged it all, for other skinny long things that can be cut with a knife, is to use spreader clamps to hold both the straight edge and the material securely.

If you use foam board and mountboard, the foam board doesn't have to be one continuous length, just the mount board, in fact, if it's not too deep you can get away with joins in that too.

Thanks very much

Assume one should bond the foamcore and mountboard before cutting strips ?

I have a Keencut Gold mountcutter,assume it would cut 6.4mm thickness ? What about the “hooking”
(5mm foam plus 1.4mm mountboard )

Thanks Neal

I never bonded boards together but you could. I fitted the foam board spacers then stuck the mount board strips to it in situ.

Hooking isn’t an issue with strips, just apertures. You’d be using the 90 degree blade and squaring arm anyway. Still use a slip mat and also maybe cut too long then trim down to size.

Thanks John, I appreciate your knowledge.

Here’s some spacers on acid

I framed these medals etc as a POS display in the shop - the regimental stable belt colours in the spacers.




It sold SO many jobs. Some of those jobs unfortunately had to include regimental belt colours too, there were many that were a total pain, but I think the Royal Marines’ was the worst!

Thanks for sharing
That’s some skill there,are those narrow ones cut by hand ?
Looks very time consuming
Neal

CMC - but would be do-able on a keencut gold

I can recommend the Keencut Square Edge ruler, I have one that's 120cms long, if you're doing it be hand. It has anti slip rubber bits on the underside.
I glue the foamboard to mountboard with EVA and weight it until dry. Very doable on a Keencut, you just have to extend your straight blade far enough and do it in a few passes so as not to bend the blade and give yourself a wonky cut.

I use a Keencut straightedge with the rubber inserts.

Foamcore is notoriously hard to cut clean. You need a good, sharp blade. Blades are cheaper than foamcore.

It's a good idea to make the first stroke very lightly just to establish the 'track'. Then you can press harder until
you get though without the risk of deviation.

If you've got an Ultimat you can use it the wrong way round to cut accurate narrow strips. Use the T Bar on the opposite side of the machine. Once square and locked nudge the Measuring Arm along towards the end of the T Bar and use the Measuring Arm Stop to stabilise the T Bar arm.

technoframer wrote: ↑Mon 04 Dec, 2023 11:16 am If you've got an Ultimat you can use it the wrong way round to cut accurate narrow strips. Use the T Bar on the opposite side of the machine. Once square and locked nudge the Measuring Arm along towards the end of the T Bar and use the Measuring Arm Stop to stabilise the T Bar arm.

T bar = mat guide?
Measuring arm = squaring arm?

I never realised the mat guide could fit on the right as well as the left!

That’s brilliant, because the stop on the squaring arm can’t be set to less than an inch or so.
This would also make reverse bevels easy - I think!

I reckon you should write to keencut and get that put in the manual!

Thanks very much I also love my Keencut straightedge ,it’s a great weight and doesn’t slip !
Deffo going to try your “wrong way round method” Technoframer.
Have a good evening
Neal