Chop saw thoughts

[NTG999]

I noticed Brevetti mentioned in another thread and this prompted me to post
For some mouldings I use my chop saw, always oak and some mouldings where the back doesn't cut cleanly etc. it is a 25 year old Makita with the finest blade I could find, I am thinking of updating my setup with maybe a new saw and measuring setup; maybe Kreg or similar. I noticed that there is very slight side to side play in the blade which I'm guessing when you cut something tough like oak at 45° will slightly deflect. I don't mind spending the money but I want to end up with a better setup. I've considered buying a 'proper' used framers chop saw but something old with millions of hours use maybe worse than hobby equipment?
Anyone know if the blades that the usual suspects sell are better/specific for mouldings?
Anyone been down this path?
Nick

[Justintime]

From my understanding an ancient double mitre saw will always beat new hobby equipment. At least that's what I have been advised. I have one in my shed waiting for me to give it a full service and make the space for it. The older machines like mine (c1980's) are much simpler and many less parts to replace/less electronics to go wrong.

[vintage frames]

As Justintime said, the older the saw, the less 'bells and whistles', the better the cut, - even if the blades are knackered from wear!

If you only use barewood mouldings, then a good chop saw will actually do because you can fill for any wobbles of the saw blade. Prospero has an arrangement of two fixed chop saws but, as I said, he reports that he only now uses bare-wood mouldings.

For a proper cut on any width of moulding, get a double-mitre saw.
On a 5 or 6inch moulding, it will cut though like butter.
And look first for a used one.
Justintime had to pay £16 for his!

I sold my Morso many years ago.

[JFeig]

There are many grades and platter thicknesses of saw blades. Platters of the circular sawblades will flex depending on the forces exerted. There is a tradeoff between platter thickness and rigidity.
With a 25 year old saw there could be a bearing / arbor issue as well.

[NTG999]

All the chop saws I've seen the motor directly drives the blade so any play is in the motor bearings. Do the older proper machines separate the motor and blade?

[vintage frames]

All the framing mitre saws are belt driven off the motors.

[prospero]

This is my setup - or lash up.

It actually works a treat on plain wood mouldings although any slight gaps get made good in the finishing process.

Having two saws means you don't disturb the angles by swinging the head and it saves time.
You can also fine-tune the angles like on a Morso.

The whole thing cost less than £500 including a 5ft steel engineers rule off EBay.

One tip: Let the blades get up to speed before plunging.