Very deep box frame
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Very deep box frame
Hi all,
I’m building a 1100 x 800 box frame. Got a wide and deep moulding so joining the ‘box’ to extend the rebate shouldn’t be a problem - the question is what material to use for the box. Mdf or ply ?
The box side depth will be 150mm.
I’ll join the sides to the moulding with pocket hole screws
Any ideas / advice ?
I and the client know the finished project will be around 15kg so I’ve already considered the hanging arrangements
Cheers, Dave
I’m building a 1100 x 800 box frame. Got a wide and deep moulding so joining the ‘box’ to extend the rebate shouldn’t be a problem - the question is what material to use for the box. Mdf or ply ?
The box side depth will be 150mm.
I’ll join the sides to the moulding with pocket hole screws
Any ideas / advice ?
I and the client know the finished project will be around 15kg so I’ve already considered the hanging arrangements
Cheers, Dave
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Re: Very deep box frame
I also agree and prefer real wood.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Very deep box frame
Although it is a specialty product in the US, Baltic birch is a very stable and SOP product for cabinet makers and a good choice in that it comes in various thicknesses.
As an example only https://www.woodcraft.com/products/wood ... ch-plywood
As an example only https://www.woodcraft.com/products/wood ... ch-plywood
Jerome Feig CPF®
http://www.minoxy.com
http://www.minoxy.com
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Re: Very deep box frame
How would you produce mitred corners of the necessary accuracy for a deep box frame of that size and depth? It does not have to be very far out, for the frame to be noticably out of being flat. I'm not so sure that I would be willing to undertake such a job.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Very deep box frame
Mark, if you are asking me regarding the use of plywood, I would use notched rabbited corners, with the joining done with the top and bottom panels. This would leave both sides free of visible joints. There would be a "face frame" in front the the "box" for decorative visibility.
Jerome Feig CPF®
http://www.minoxy.com
http://www.minoxy.com
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Re: Very deep box frame
Thanks jerome.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Very deep box frame
I would have a look at Rose & Hollis A333 extendable box frame moulding.
Justin George GCF(APF)
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Re: Very deep box frame
One way I liked to create depth was with two wide flat mouldings joined with pocket hole screws. The lip of each frame forms two rebates, one can take a capping frame and the other can take backing/mounting boards. Only really good for plain woods that you're hand finishing though, to conceal the join.
Flat strips can also be easily used and joined with pocket hole screws and if it's something nice, like oak, the joins don't matter really, you'd tell it was more than one piece of wood by the grain anyway.
If the box is to be painted, I'd have no problem with MDF really.
Flat strips can also be easily used and joined with pocket hole screws and if it's something nice, like oak, the joins don't matter really, you'd tell it was more than one piece of wood by the grain anyway.
If the box is to be painted, I'd have no problem with MDF really.
John Turner
The ex framer Formerly Known As RoboFramer.
The ex framer Formerly Known As RoboFramer.
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Re: Very deep box frame
Thanks everyone