Working with Filmoplast P

[Bagel Framer]

Hi all,

I bought some Filmoplast P recently thinking it was like normal tape (have never used it before) but it clearly isn't.

How does one work with it please - presumably it needs heating up with a burnishing iron or such like (I bought it with the intention of float mounting a papyrus to a mountboard).

BTW - this is my first post as a Dad, how cool is that...! My boy Thomas born on Friday, 6lbs 15 oz...!

Thanks,

Sean

[John]

Sorry, cant help wuth your enquiry, but congratulations Sean!

[prospero]

I think Filmoplast P is intended more for book/document repairs. I have used it in the past for mending tears in old prints. You don't need heat to activate it, just burnish it down well. Not sure it's the ideal stuff for floating papyruses.


Many congrats on new sprog

[Moglet]

BTW - this is my first post as a Dad, how cool is that...! My boy Thomas born on Friday, 6lbs 15 oz...!

Hey Seán, that's fantastic news! Hearty congratulations to yourself and Mum, and may Baby Thomas be blessed with a long, happy, and healthy life!




(PS ... will you be appearing on the Forum nightshift for the next few months??? )

[WelshFramer]

I use Filmoplast P90 which I imagine is similar. I just stick it down as if it were ordinary sticky tape then burnish it with a bone or a teaspoon once I've conformed the picture is straight. Don't forget to remove the backing tape first, though.

Recently I had a not very big watercolour brought back. Both the P90 hinges had torn through and the artwork had slipped down. Can't quite imagine how that happened - both hinges had torn along the edge of the artwork.

Anyway, I'm mostly using P70 tape for hinging watercolours now - it's somewhat stronger.

[framejunkie]

[quote="WelshFramer"] Don't forget to remove the backing tape first, though.


That's the key to it - once you've separated the release-paper backing and threaded the end of the roll through the metal widget on the box lid it acts as a dispenser - always leave a length of the release-paper to loop back under the small flap on the lid, then when you pull that the box spits out the filmoplast P - tear it off and away you go.

Filmoplast P may or may not be good for papyri - never tried it. I use it occasionally for hinging translucent pieces - eg drawings on those lovely thin asian types of paper - normally you can't see where the hinging is. It's not very strong though. I'd probably use P90 or even P90+ for that job.

Congrat's to you Sean for entering the world of parenthood - lots of photos and cute footprints and suchlike to frame soon, no doubt! Happy days

[Bagel Framer]

Thanks to you all for your kind wishes etc re. our new arrival, life changing and brilliant it has to be said. I might make it onto the forum late night, though it might take me a while to type one handed as I'll probably be winding my son..!

Framejunkie - funny you should mention casts etc as that's what we recently bought (a casting kit), so casts of my son's feet/hands will no doubt be box framed at some stage.

As for the Filmoplast P - I read on here that it can be used in float mounting a papyrus:

"You could try attaching it with a transparent tape such as FilmoplastP, which is virtually invisble when stuck down."

I can't separate the two films on the tape, assuming that's what you're supposed to do - I'll probably end up using something else and getting a credit on the FilmoplastP.

Sean

[Bagel Framer]

.....and of course, had I have read Framejunkie's tips on using the dispenser for the FilmoplastP, my problems will no doubt go away.

Put it down to fatherhood

Sean

[Framer Dave]

Recently I had a not very big watercolour brought back. Both the P90 hinges had torn through and the artwork had slipped down. Can't quite imagine how that happened - both hinges had torn along the edge of the artwork.

Anyway, I'm mostly using P70 tape for hinging watercolours now - it's somewhat stronger.

The fact that it tore is actually a good thing. When hinging you want the hinge paper to be lighter in weight than the artwork. This will allow the hinges to tear and give way in the even of an accident, taking the force of the fall or blow. Otherwise the artwork itself could tear. It's sort of a mechanical equivalent to a fuse or circuit breaker.

[Roboframer]

it might take me a while to type one handed as I'll probably be winding my son..!

A clockwork baby - cool!

[WelshFramer]

When hinging you want the hinge paper to be lighter in weight than the artwork. This will allow the hinges to tear and give way in the even of an accident,

Well that's true. It's a shame that the artist didn't notice it before she tried selling it to a customer.