The Framers Forum

What tack would you would take in this canvas stretching scenario?:

Use 1372mm stretcher bars, and have just enough to stretch the canvas round to the sides of the bars (as Pic 1)?

or

Use 1220mm bars (shown with measuring tape in Pic 2), and vastly cut off key parts of image (in this case, two large flowers)?

While the latter option would be preferable for a more professional job, I can see why any client would take issue to losing an integral part of the image.

I'm noticing this issue is really a theme with limitations set by stretcher bars, and I'm sure many of you have had to toy with the same problem many times.

Get bespoke stretcher bars made. Bird and Davis are my go to. They are excellent. Great quality and service. Centrado use them and add on a cut so you might as well go straight to the source

Seconded

There are plenty of stretcher mouldings to choose from, some of them can be keyed too. Mainline do the best one, the off cuts can be straight cut and joined together so there’s hardly any waste and the bracing system is also very easy.



The main limitation for that piece though, is the lack of any spare material at all, which I doubt is canvas anyway, probably some sort of vinyl. It’s tourist tat, good stuff comes already stretched.

I’d not stretch that at all unless the customer wanted to pay for relining, I’d Bingham it - stick it to a board with diluted PVA and lose only what goes under the lip of the frame if it’s having one.

Thanks for the responses everyone.

As per Fruitini and Justin's recommendations, I ordered some Bird & Davis bars. A lot more pricey than the standard Lion ones I'd costed for, but that's the cost of naiveté. However, I'll be allowing for the bespoke ones in future, without doubt. Thanks for the heads up.

John - you've raised a good point about these mock canvasses. I suppose these are becoming more and more common nowadays. is there a video or further instructions anywhere that demonstrate the "Bingham" method you mention?

Just to add, if that's a low value plastic printed "canvas", then I have stretched them onto strainer bar instead. The elasticity in the "canvas" helps get just the right amount of tension. I don't expect that the plastic material would relax or be affected by humidity like real canvas might, therefore fingers crossed wouldn't need to be tightened in the future.

RobM wrote: Thu 11 Jun, 2026 2:03 pm

John - you've raised a good point about these mock canvasses. I suppose these are becoming more and more common nowadays. is there a video or further instructions anywhere that demonstrate the "Bingham" method you mention?

Probably in one of Pete Bingham’s books, but all you really need are the instructions on a tub of builders PVA.

Dilute as necessary, no weaker than 50/50, some plasticky canvasses could need no dilution at all. Apply with a mini roller. Some boards may need priming with a weaker solution first. Allow adhesive to go off a bit so it’s tacky when the fabric is positioned.

Like everything, trial and error, practice on what you can find.

My preference would be EVACon-R for wet mounting canvases. Fully reversible with water - and I know that because I've done it a few times. Never heard it called the Bingham method before, it is just a version of wet mounting. Think of it as wallpapering but for artwork.

I always prime the board first - whether to dilute the adhesive will depend on the board substrate being used. Once fully dry, use a foam mini roller to apply next layer of adhesive (undiluted) and then roll the canvas onto it when it is at the sticky/tacky stage. Then put it under weight to allow it to fully bond and dry and leave it overnight or for a good few hours.

Go to a junk or charity shop, buy some old canvases and have a practice. It is far easier to do than people worry about but does take a bit of practice.

I just made up the term as the guy’s solution to many things was sticking down with builders PVA.

EvaconR is better of course and wheat starch paste. If it would work, is better still and cheaper than both.

JKX wrote: Fri 12 Jun, 2026 12:52 pm I just made up the term as the guy’s solution to many things was sticking down with builders PVA.

Fair enough, but I'd suggest easier for those learning to understand the correct terminology for a method that has been used in our industry and others for so many years for any wider discussions needed beyond this thread.

@RobM As John has rightly suggested, wheat or other starch pastes are also suitable for wet mounting. Indeed as an example companies that specialise in bonding down old posters to linen and so on will use starch pastes. But for most framers a useful and handy ready to use alternative to that is EvaCon-R and as it is fully reversible it is available to use on any of the four framing levels. The time saved against having to make up a large batch of starch paste for the job more than covers the slightly higher cost of the ready to use adhesive.