Float mounting methods – which do you prefer?

[pfmoro]

Hi guys,

I’m working on a float mount and would appreciate your opinions on the methods below.

Initially, I’ve been using the "slot hinging" method, where you cut several slots into the mount and insert either archival gummed tape or Japanese tissue paper attached with starch paste, depending on your preference.

However, I came across this alternative method on the Endurart YouTube channel and decided to give it a quick test. Honestly, I feel it’s less intrusive to the artwork, but I’d love to hear what the more experienced framers think.

Which method do you guys prefer, and why? Are there any particular advantages or disadvantages in terms of conservation, security and long-term stability?

I’d really appreciate your thoughts and experience. Thanks in advance!

Methods for comparison:
Endurart Method:

Rinaldin Method:

@frame_london Method:

[Tudor Rose]

Never been a fan of cutting slots in the mountboard to feed hinges through. Anything you do like that is removing some of the integrity of the board in the longer term. Always another way of doing it that avoids cutting the slots in the first place. Especially a massive cut like they show in the first video.

[pramsay13]

I normally use the pass-through method with a couple of hinges, or the hedgehog method if the piece has more weight to it.

On the first one having such a large slit seems overkill, I normally make 2 oversized slits.

On the second one I'd be a bit concerned about it buckling being fixed top and bottom.

On the third one they seem to be using pass-through method but all the way around the artwork which seems like a lot of work.

[Tw_1984]

Here is the hedgehog method on Lion's YouTube -- I have been using this on heavier papers with a Lineco water-activated gummed paper tape.

I did use the technique to float a piece on newsprint, I made the mistake of using the same Lineco water-activated gummed paper tape and I feel it was too heavy a tape for the newsprint and I could sort of see where the piece was hinged. I think I would have been better with a lighter water-activated tape (Mulberry? Linen?)

[Justintime]

I haven't used pass through hinges since I discovered the hedgehog technique and variations of it. I much prefer hinging near the edges of work than previously hinging to more central parts of the work.

[pfmoro]

Hi everyone,

Thanks so much for all the advice and for sharing your experience. It’s been really helpful, and I’ve learned a lot from the discussion!

For anyone finding this thread in the future, here’s a quick summary of the methods discussed:

Pass-through hinges: Traditional method using slots cut into the mountboard. Effective, but avoid unnecessarily large cuts that weaken the board.

Hedgehog method: An alternative that works well for heavier papers. Choose the hinging tape carefully, as heavier tape may show through lightweight paper.
Watch the LION tutorial

Endurart method: Watch the above Endurart video

Rinaldin method: Watch the above Rinaldin video

Frame London method: See Frame London above post

The main takeaway seems to be that the best method depends on the artwork's weight and paper type, while allowing for natural movement and maintaining good conservation practice.

Thanks again, everyone, for contributing and helping make this a useful resource for other framers!

[Justintime]

I think it's important to point out that the weight of the art paper will dictate the weight of the hinge paper. It is important to always use a lighter weight hinging paper than the weight of the artwork, not just to prevent the hinge showing through lighter art papers but also that in the event of an accident/physical shock to the framed piece, the hinging paper will break before the art paper tears.

[Carol55]

Really interesting discussion. I've generally used the hedgehog method for float mounting, but I'm keen to get to grips with pass-through hinging, particularly as it avoids cutting a large opening in the mountboard.

I've tried it a couple of times with mixed results. My main frustration is accurately positioning the artwork while allowing for some adjustment.

For example, if I've cut my mountboard to its finished size and want an even 30mm border around the artwork, what's the best sequence?

Do you attach the hinges to the artwork first, let them dry, then position the artwork and mark and cut the slots? Or do you cut the slots first and attach the hinges once the artwork is positioned?

Previously, I've cut the slots around 25% wider than the hinges, but perhaps that's not enough tolerance? I'm also wondering whether I should be attaching the hinges further down the artwork, rather than close to the top edge, and using longer hinges to allow more adjustment.

The method shown in the original video appears to allow some flexibility in positioning, which is exactly what I've struggled with using pass-through hinges. Once the hinges are fed through the slots, how do you make those final adjustments and secure them behind the board without pulling the artwork out of alignment?

Also, are people generally only hinging along the top edge?

I feel I'm missing a practical step somewhere! I'd be really interested to hear how others approach this and whether there are any tricks for getting everything accurately aligned.

Thanks!

[JFeig]

In my experience over the 40+ years is that the pass through method does not damage the strength of a mounting board to any great extent any more than a small hole that is used to insert a mechanical fastener.

For the question of the insecurity of attempting the alignment of the art to the finished frame, you can, most of the time, cut the mount board oversized and trim the outer edges afterwards. I usually attach the hinges to the verso side of the art and let them dry prior to cutting any slots into the mount board after measuring where they go(simple sketch drafting) and marking the location with pencil. I also cut the slots slightly wider than the actual hinges to allow for movement.
I also burnish the edges of the slot with the pointed end of a burnishing bone or the point of an awl to push down any "sharp" edges that could possibly cut a paper hinge.

Yes, I have used the platform method and "hedgehog" methods with good success.

[vintage frames]

From someone with no accredited qualifications, this is what I tend to do.

Go to screwfix and buy a 1" wide wood chisel.
Mark where I want the slots to go on the mount board, then after placing the board over a flat wooden surface, knock out the slots by using the chisel and hammer.
Two parallel cuts for each slot and the cutout nicked out with an exacto knife.

Then I put the artwork face down on a trusted surface, cover with the outsized mountboard and mark the posotion of each slot with a light pencil.

After that I do as JFeig does, attach the hinges with the centres sharply folded.
With care, everything should then 'slot' together quite easily - or not.

Trim the mountboard to finished size and get on with the framing.