Securing canvases in frames / dust covers.

[Not your average framer]

I quite often encounter issues arising from securing canvases into frames. Personally, I don't like the idea using any fixing method which penetrates either the canvas or the stretcher bars.

I often use the excellent "canvas offest" brackets in the Lion catalog and generally these work well particularly if the rebate is deep enough for the bracket to be taking up excess depth in the rebate. In this configuration, even the long canvas offsets remain nice and solid. Unfortunately when the canvas is hanging out of the back of the frame enough to need longer offset brackets, there is a tendancy for the bracket to "give" instead of providing that nice solid feel.

Over the years I've seen all manor of methods used including the work of a well respected framer who fastens screw eyes into the sides of the canvas and then screws through the eyes into the back of the framer.

One of my customers deals in the quality end of the market and regularly asks me to frame nice originals for discerning customers, I like to frame these with a removeable dust cover of standard (and therefore breathable) Corricor at the back. Since these are usually in hand finished stacked moulding frames, I often have the option of creating an "over the top" deep rebate so I can insert a small plain wood frame after the dust cover to keep it flat and well sealed. I then clamp the canvas, dust cover, and insert frame in place using the canvas offsets. As I sometimes line the rebate with mountboard strips, the canvas offsets also provide a nice simple non-adhesive method of retaining these in place.

It could be informative and enlightening to hear other framers methods and opinions.

[prospero]

I use the Lion spring clips, mostly the large-sized ones (ref 525). They are strong and easily removeable.
Sometimes I put a sheet of corricor under the clips, more for protection than dust incursion. I cut slots in the board top and bottom for ventilation. Sometimes on (cough) 'gallery wraps' I use the Lion 'bendy' plates, but this does mean inserting a small screw in the edge of the canvas.

I often reframe imported painting where the canvas has been fixed to the frame by knocking nails through the canvas. Nasty. And I don't like Z-clips either.

[JFeig]

I Sometimes I put a sheet of corricor under the clips, more for protection than dust incursion.

Corricor (fluted poly sheet) or foam center board is the norm in the US as a backing barrier for paintings. Our sources have offset brackets that range from 1/8" to 1 1/2". A pad of either felt or Vailar(sp) (foam) is also on the rise as a guard against abrasion to the paint surface. The use of a dust cover is waining.

For a clean look, I paint the back side of the moulding with casein paint.

[Bill Henry]

Although the use of glazing to protect stretched canvases is increasing, the vast majority fitting canvas in our shop does not include glass or acrylic.

It seems to us that placing a dust cover behind any art which doesn’t have protection on the front is, therefore, pointless.

Like Jerome, we’re beginning to use Coroplast (I assume that it is the same or similar to Corricor) on the back, not to seal the frame package, but to provide a bit more protection against accidental puncture and tears.

Like you, it makes me cringe whenever I see a brad toenailed into the stretcher bar. As far as offsets are concerned: we generally only use them if the depth of the canvas is greater than the rebate depth.

When the rebate depth of the moulding can swallow the entire canvas (and the Coroplast) we generally fit the frame with glazers points. It is less expensive and the work goes faster than offsets.

When you are talking about “spring clips” are you referring to the curved metal thingies with “teeth” on one end and a “loop” that holds the stretcher bars? (The Lion site is down at the moment).

If so, we’ve had pretty bad luck with them. The tension on the springs was so great that they kept “sprong”ing out of the frame and hitting me on the noggin. And, I was worried that the part which held the stretcher bars would ding the canvas.

If these are not what you were referring to … well, never mind.

[prospero]

No, my springy things don't have teeth. They are basically a piece of slightly springy curved metal about 2" long. One end has a screw hole, the other has a small upturn. I find them good because you can bend them to adjust the tension according to how far the canvas protrudes. Usually only light pressure is necessary.
I very rarely get a frame that takes the whole depth. Most canvases are fine with two clips top and bottom. Also they tend to make a small gap between canvas and wall, which is all to the good for air circulation. I sometimes put cork bumpers on the bottom clips.

[Merlin]

Spring Clips from Lion. Code 566

Spring clips.jpg (4.63 KiB) Viewed 4931 times

[prospero]

Ah.... thems the little version. I don't use the little ones much anymore. They have sharp edges on the ends. If you fix them with a power screwdriver they can snag on the screw and spin round to fetch a chunk out of your finger.

[WelshFramer]

I always thought that the purpose of a dust cover was to stop dust and other crud getting between the canvas and the stretcher bars. Not only might it weaken the canvas in time but it might migrate through the canvas and show a dark line where the canvas touches the stretcher.

Putting holes in a dust cover seems to me to defeat its object - both dust and insects can get through holes. A dust cover with holes would seem to provide a perfect environment for insects.

[prospero]

I always thought that the purpose of a dust cover was to stop dust and other crud getting between the canvas and the stretcher bars. Not only might it weaken the canvas in time but it might migrate through the canvas and show a dark line where the canvas touches the stretcher.

Putting holes in a dust cover seems to me to defeat its object - both dust and insects can get through holes. A dust cover with holes would seem to provide a perfect environment for insects.

IMHO, canvases don't need a dust cover over the back. In fact anything that keeps dust out will keep air out and canvases need to breathe. Taking the painting off the wall ever few years and checking the back is a good idea. Then you could vacuum out any dust, but oil paintings in general are quite tough. Dirt will not cause damage. More serious if a wedge falls out and lodges between stretcher and canvas.

The use of a stiff board on the back is for protection against physical incursions, and then only really desirable if the painting is liable to be transported on a regular basis. People stack them in cars, lean them against chairs/tables....

[Bill Henry]

Nope, them ain't it. Those clips you described are not the ones I was thinking of.

When I first opened the shop, I was a sucker for any salesman who would give me the time. One of them convinced me that that these



were the greatest thing since sliced bread. They weren’t!

The flat aspect of this abomination was supposed to span the back of the stretcher bar while the hook-like bend was supposed to hold the interior edge of the bar. The vicious looking jaw on the left was supposed to jam into the wood of the rebate and hold the canvas in place.

But, the tension on this spring was often too great, so it bowed the moulding, and caused the spring and the canvas to pop out. One almost impaled my ear once.

If you meet an itinerant peddler trying to pawn these hellish items off on you, beat him severely about the head and shoulders until he gives up his profession!

[prospero]

Hmmm. That looks like a handy tool for removing boy scouts from horses hooves.

[WelshFramer]

canvases need to breathe.

Most of the ones I get seem to be dead already.

[foxyframer]

Some of the canvases we get in to frame should be shot at first light, but we always leave the canvas open at the back anyway.

That metal thing looks like an instrument of torture; you just wouldn't want to step on one.

Foxy