Wish list

[Not your average framer]

Wouldn't it be nice if one of our suppliers could come up with a couple of rules with a hook at one end and helpful bradawl holes along its length just the right distance from the edge to position the D-rings and screws.

Two sizes would be nice, say 18" and 36" long.

Any enterprising supplies looking for something new to include in their product range?

Anyone else got any wish list items?

[JFeig]

I made my own with a C-thru plastic ruler. I drilled 2 columns of holes every 1/2" - spaced 1/2" from the edge and 1/4" from the edge.

Here is what they look like http://www.office1000.com/discount/rulers-graph.html I have the B-97 (24") and B-95 (18")

[framejunkie]

I can't believe that using this device would be any quicker than just using a tape measure and bradawl.

That said, if someone brings one out I'll probably get one anyway!

[prospero]

I usually use my trusty cordless drill/screwdriver as a measure.

[Roboframer]

I take a stab at the distance, about a third of the way down usually - and use a 'T' square to get the other side the same - much faster.

If there's more than one frame and it's important (rarely) that the holes are exactly the same distance down on each frame, well, I'll line up two frames and the 'T' square will usually cover one side of the second one, sometimes both and sometimes even a third frame.

[foxyframer]

I made a miniature T-square years ago for this purpose. 1cm by 1/2 cm, 10 cm head, 40cm long with graded marks.

Dead easy and simple. No need to buy anything; good old lateral thinking, which we all do every day.

Foxy

[John]

I know that this may be a solution for which there is no problem, but here are a couple of (untried) suggestions.

The Knicker Elastic Method

Take a 36in length of knicker elastic and sew a 4 - 5in loop at one end.

Measuring from the bottom of the loop: -

• Draw a red line at 9in and a red dot at 6in
• Draw a blue line at 15in and a blue dot at 10in
• Draw a black line at 24in and a black dot at 16in

To use, place the loop on a bottom corner and stretch the elastic so that one of the coloured lines aligns with the top of the frame. When the elastic is stretched thus, the dot of the same colour as the lane at the top of the frame indicates the location of the D ring.


The Scale Method

Make a scale by taking a flat wooden lath, lay it down flat and place marks at whole inch intervals along the left side. Then along the right side place marks at 2/3 inch intervals so that the 6th mark is 4in from the bottom, the 12th mark 8in etc.

Number each of the marks starting at the bottom.

To use, line the bottom of the lath with the bottom of the frame, read the frame height on the left scale and the same height on the right scale will indicate the position of the D ring.

[silvercleave]

[quote="John"]I know that this may be a solution for which there is no problem, but here are a couple of (untried) suggestions.

The Knicker Elastic Method

Take a 36in length of knicker elastic and sew a 4 - 5in loop at one end.

wher can i buy this??

[Bill Henry]

On a related problem of determining the "anchor" point of the hanging hardware:

After a few years in business, two things bothered me a little.

1) When constructing several pictures frames all of which had the exact same dimensions, how could I “string” the wire so that each of them would hang at exactly the same height when the customer finally got them all home?

b) When a customer brought in a frame for repair, mat (mount) replacement, or to replace broken glass, how could I insure that this frame would hang in exactly the same place when it was returned to them?

I tried using the ubiquitous carpenters retractable tape ruler to try to measure and secure the wire “sag”, but as soon as I put any tension on the wire, it slipped off the hookie thing on the end of the tape.

I had a machinist construct what I eventually called “RoboFit” – sorry, John, it has nothing to do with you. I named it after that silly movie “RoboCop”. It is made out of block aluminum.



1) For these multiple, same sized frames, I adjust the slide bar to whatever I deem appropriate, lock it in place, then string the wire around the “wire post” with a fair amount of tension. The little bit of tension keeps RoboFit in position and frees up both hands to string and secure the wire. This same position is used on all of the frames of the same size.

2) Before I begin to unfit a frame that has been brought in for change/repair, I adjust RoboFit to snag the wire on the existing frame, lock it in position, and set it aside for when I need to finally re-fit the frame. When I do, RoboFit insures that this “hanging point” will be identical to the original.



Thinking that this idea was the best thing since sliced bread, and believing that if I sold the rights to it, I could retire in the lap of luxury, I tried to sell the rights. No one wanted it. My marketing skills are just slightly above those of a lint covered lollypop and I didn’t have the capital (or the guts) to try to finance production myself, so …

[The Crofter]

It has already been invented, will post link when I can remember where I saw it !.

[Bill Henry]

It has already been invented, will post link when I can remember where I saw it !

Aw, crud!
Really?
It figures.

I would appreciate it if you could that link. I suppose I was deluding myself that I would be the only one in the world to “solve” this problem.

[The Crofter]

No idea where I bought it but possibly from a Lion catalogue, 2000.

I would have shown it in action but I do not have a single picture on the wall in the house !!.

Long story.....

[Bill Henry]

Thanks, Pat – although I am sorely disappointed that you found it.

… well, back to the drawing board.

[Not your average framer]

I am sorely disappointed that you found it.

Hi Bill,

The other one is plastic, but yours has real class. I know which one I would rather have!

[kev@frames]

I usually use my trusty cordless drill/screwdriver as a measure.

you are not the only one m8. Real framers have a ruler tattooed on their forearm though.

[framejunkie]

Real framers have a ruler tattooed on their forearm though.

I had mine done when i was 6. It started out being calibrated in centimetres, but now its in inches