moulding advice

[Thyrsis]

Hi, I'm cutting an Arqadia moulding on a Morso but finding it difficult to get a clean cut. The moulding has a silver foil finish which 'chips'. Does anyone have a remedy? Or does anyone know of a similar make of moulding that would be better? I'm using Arqadia 226 655 005. Thanks.

[The Jolly Good Framer #1]

Hello, and welcome to the forum!

I have never used the moulding, but after having a quick look in Arqadia’s catalogue I would say that your blades need sharpening.

If its chipping on the top then you defiantly need your blades sharpened. If it’s chipping a little down the back then that happens… a bit, but not all the time.

Also you could try just taking small nibbles out of the moulding. Just one notch at a time making sure that your second from last chop is the second from last notch (if that makes sense!).

The only other reason would be that the moulding is carp!

[Bill Henry]

Even the best manufacturers using the best woods sometimes have snotwood in a section which cannot be seen until you cut it. But as Jolly suggested, if the anterior surface is chipping, it is most likely the blades.

Steve Kerr suggested that the slight gap between the right and left fence of the Morsø be filled with a silicone glue (not caulking) to “cushion” the blade as it slices through the moulding. I have been using that trick for over a year and the “break out” on the outside of the moulding has been significantly reduced.

I usually fill this gap on a Saturday afternoon so it can cure for a couple of days, then on Tuesday morning I shave off the excess with a mat cutter blade so that this silicone bead is flush with both fences. Give it a whirl. If you don’t like it, you can scrape out the goop easily.

[Thyrsis]

Thanks for your replies, I'll get the blades sharpened!

[Jonny2morsos]

There is a lot of moulding around on some very "iffy" base wood at the moment. As well as getting your blades sharpened I would increase your wastage factor accordingly. I am not giving mfrs. a 2nd chance now, if it's no good I seek an alternative elsewhere.

John.

[Roboframer]

I know this moulding and I know the range/family that it is part of - it's not nice - but your Morso is nice.

In fact your Morso is very nice - it can see off solid oak and ash with no 'feathering' problems - and if yours can do that, but has problems with a softer wood coated in some way, then the problem is the moulding - as far as the morso is concerned.

Mugabe it would cut fine on a saw, and mugabe suppliers should test cut all their mouldings and let us know which ones cut best on which machines - bearing in mind most of us don't use saws; not as in the double mitre dust extracting animals.

There is of course chop service, but Arqadia don't do chop on this moulding - they only do chop on Larson Juhl plus a small selection of their own stuff.

What does that tell you/what can you take from that from such an 'industry leader'?

Well - they have tailored what they can or want to do - so fine - let's do the same and follow their excellent example!

Adapt your stock to what you and your machinery are capable of cutting best and/or to what you can buy chopped.

[John]

Mugabe it would cut fine on a saw, and mugabe suppliers ...

???

[Steve N]

Hi JGF's
Sometimes when the moulding is soft or iffy base, it could be where the blades come together at the front, the waste wood has nowhere to go, so instead of cutting you are crunching the soft/iffy wood. Years ago you could buy some metal magnetic spacers to fit against the fence of the Morse and along the measure guide, this had the effect that on the last cut you make is on a clear part of the blade, so the waste wood move away easy. In the past I have used wooden spacers with atg tape on to the same effect, this might help.

Steve

[Not your average framer]

Hi JGF's
Sometimes when the moulding is soft or iffy base, it could be where the blades come together at the front, the waste wood has nowhere to go, so instead of cutting you are crunching the soft/iffy wood.
Steve

If this is true then the wood won't be much good when it comes to joining it either. I think it's time to get your suppliers rep to come and have a look. If his product is sub standard, then you want it replaced or your money back!

Has anyone else notice how often the wood used for finger jointing together to make mouldings is snotwood and decent wood all mixed up together? I think the idea is that, you'll have to throw that bit in the dustbin, but that you sill end up paying for it!

[Thyrsis]

I know this moulding and I know the range/family that it is part of - it's not nice - but your Morso is nice.

......Adapt your stock to what you and your machinery are capable of cutting best and/or to what you can buy chopped.

Have come to the decision that, as you say, the moulding is 'not nice'

As we are only trying to stick to just one moulding for framing our own product, can anyone suggest a close alternative to Arqadia's 226655005
http://www.arqadia.co.uk/commerceportal ... No=DEFAULT

thanks,

[kev@frames]

another point is that this issue of the soft wood jamming up between the blades is that it is significantly less of a problem on new (77m) blades, and almost always very much more a problem as your blades are getting to the end of their useable life (small) where there really is nowhere left for it to go.
after breaking (yes, they broke) three near-end-of-life blades this year, I only realised this when the new sets started being used.
if mouldings are regularly troublesome, its the best plan to "discontinue" them rather than struggle on and give yourself hassle and the customers a job which could have been better.

[prospero]

It's a good idea to test-fly new mouldings. Get a min amount before buying in quantity. Some look great in the rep's case or in the catalogue, but are a swine to work with.