Glue for stacking factory finished mouldings.

[Not your average framer]

I'm at it again, trying to do things which most people prefer to avoid. I want to glue the reverse face of a factory finished moulding into the forward facing rebate of another moulding.

Unfortunately the reverse of the finished moulding is covered by the usual red primer finish. My plan is to glue the moulding in place and then underpin through the other moulding into the reverse face of the finished moulding.

Can anyone recommend a suitable glue for sticking this primer coated surface to a plain wood surface.

Thanks in anticipation,
Mark.

[Roboframer]

Can't you sand the red primer off and use normal wood glue?

[Not your average framer]

Hi John,

Well yes, but only if I have to! I was just checking if someone could recommend something quicker and easier.

If all else fails I silicone it and fire some brads through both mouldings sideways.

[Not your average framer]

Hi John,

I've got just the right thing to get the red primer off with minimum effort and time. It looks like a SurForm blade, but it's for smoothing and sanding down the edges of tiles. It's sold under the trade name Vitrex.

It cuts through the red primer in seconds. Thanks for steering me in the right direction, I was thinking that sanding it down would take too long, but with one of these it's really quick.

[Roboframer]

Well, as I use gummed paper tape to seal most of my frames I regularly have to remove finishes from the backs of some frames. They're pretty few and far bewteen but a bog standard sanding block works for me - but this is regards gummed paper tape activated by wetting - not a hard setting glue.

You actually don't have to remove the finish totally - but it's very easy to if you want to. All you need to do is change the surface from a smooth one to one with some 'tooth'. Truth be known the wood glue would probably sort the primed thing anyway.

Try bonding two primed (offcut) surfaces together with wood glue.

[Not your average framer]

You actually don't have to remove the finish totally - but it's very easy to if you want to. All you need to do is change the surface from a smooth one to one with some 'tooth'. Truth be known the wood glue would probably sort the primed thing anyway.

Hi John,

You may be right (I don't know), but since my label is going on the back, I will be taking it back to the wood to be sure that it's a good long term bond.

Using a water based PVA wood glue on a non-porous surface consisting of an unknown variety of primer does not give me much basis for confidence. Also the supplier does not need to specify to the end user the type of properties of this primer and may well vary primer used according to variations in the market price, availabilty or other unknown factors.

I think I play safe on the one!

[JFeig]

I do not apply glue to the factory finished stacked frames that I make - other that what I make from raw lumber.

I simply nail them together, so that I can replace a rail if I need to do so.

[Not your average framer]

I simply nail them together, so that I can replace a rail if I need to do so.

Hi Jerry,

Normally I would do the same, but this particular set up makes that a risking option, because the only location where I can nail through is too close to the front of the outer moulding. In a few weeks time, when I've had the mouldings machined a put my samples together I'll post some pics and you'll see what I mean.

Also this stacked moulding is going to be a standard part of my mouldings range and needs to be very quick and easy to do!