The Framers Forum

Hi Guys,
I’ve inherited an old working A3 Kennett hot press, tack iron and adhesive sheets, but no instructions.
Till now we’ve been using foam core board self adhesive and plain, thought this bit of kit might cut mounting costs.
We’ve given the press a go on one of our Inkjet Prints (Epson H/W matt paper), worked a treat! Probably a bit silly bonding it to ArtBak because the card now has a bow! wouldn’t be a problem if it was going into a frame though.

So to questions>

Temperature Dial goes 1 to 10, we used 2, no idea what temperature that is, but could find a way to take a reading if someone could tell me the correct temperature.
We used a time of about 2mins with press already warmed up, any advice on that score.

We inherited a pack of A3 adhesive sheets no idea of make or type, what make type should I buy if we continue to use the press?.

Normally, we only mount our own matt inkjet prints prior to framing, occasionally we bond gloss inkjet prints to shelf adhesive 5mm foam core board and cut bevelled mounts for our local photographic club. If we were to use the hot-press for club work we need a backing board that will not warp, suggestions please.

Jim

UPDATE

Whilst I was typing my query I left the Artbak hot mounted print on a flat (cold) surface weighted down with a couple of books, it’s almost flat now, I would still appreciate any advice though

I have never found a board that won't curl up to some extent. If I only have one thing to do I usually switch the heat off and don't open the press until it has cooled. Otherwise, get your stall set out and have a few cover sheets of clean board and a few heavy books or whatever ready to weight down the boards for ten mins or so as they come out the press.

Some people recommend a sheet of 6mm glass as a weight to keep them flat while cooling. Alternatively a heavy-duty cutting mat works well.

As Prospero mentioned there aren’t too many backing boards that won’t bow to some extent. Of the things I have used as a substrate, GatorBoard® seems to curl less than almost anything else. However, it is very dense (read heavy), and difficult to cut.

One thing I might suggest, especially if your press doesn’t have a temperature gauge built in, would be to get some temperature strips (either the “illuminated” thermometer kind or the ones made of wax) to see where you are in the temperature department.

Different dry mount tissues melt and bond at different temperatures, and some “art” (some ink jet prints especially) behaves very badly if the heat is too high. The best temperature setting is the lowest you can get by with. Ordinarily, you shouldn't have to exceed a "dwell" time for more than 45 seconds to a minute. But, both the art and substrate should be pre-dried before you bond them. This reduces moisture which can interfere with the adhesive.

The wax strips (just a few pounds) or thermometer strips (free if you ask nicely) should be available from the company that distributes Seal/Bienfang dry mount tissue.

If you have sufficient rebate depth could you sandwich two pieces of artbak back to back using atg or similar. With both pieces acting against each other the board should stay flat. Guess you copuld use the hot press to do this as well. Just a thought, not tried it.

The Crofter wrote:If you have sufficient rebate depth could you sandwich two pieces of artbak back to back using atg or similar.

I reckon if i was going to try this I'd want to use something with a bit more adhesion and longevity than ATG. Probably a proper wet glue(eg PVA) and then press the sandwich under weights until dry. Haven't experimented with adhesives on the back of Artbak, so i can't recommend which one to use.