Sekisui tape

[Not your average framer]

Does anyone know if the glossy coating on Sekisui tape is waterproof? It looks like it probably is, but it would be nice to know for sure! I think it is sold by Lion as "K kraft" tape.

I used to use this tape a few years ago, but stopped using it when I had problems with it lifting it during hot and humid weather if used on pine mouldings. I'm thinking of using it for sealing frames used on damp walls or in bath rooms and will in future avoid using it with pine mouldings.

I am limiting my future range of backing boards which I will stock mainly to Corricor & Conservatek, to help beat the recession and my intention is to use this tape with Conservatek backing boards only. I am of course assuming that this tape should stick securely to Conservatek boards. Any feedback regarding suitabilty would be gratefully received.

[Dermot]

You should consider fully sealing the back of the frame the way they do it in the US with plain white Tyvek

You can get it in Dublin from
O’Sullivan Graphics
Unit 2 Airton Business Park, Airton Rd, Tallaght, Dublin 24, Ireland
t: +353 (0)1 4700 800
f: +353 (0)1 4700 880

They sell it to sign makers for making banners…

The roll is about 120cm x 50m ………..I have most of a roll if you just want to try out a small amount………it makes a super finish to the back of the frames and is strongly recommended for “Preservation Framing”

The plain white Tyvek is the same material as is used to moisture proof wooden framed houses………..the housing material has Tyvek branded all over it….

This is the link to the same type of material sold by Preservation Equipment UK http://www.preservationequipment.com/St ... yvek-Rolls

[Dermot]

Another solution would be to use a self adhesive aluminum tape that is used in the construction industry or the car body repair business these tape generally have a very high grab adhesive…..

One supplier in Dublin is Faulkner Packaging http://www.discountpackaging.ie/product ... ory_ID=158

[prospero]

If I get a frame that licky-sticky tape won't stick to, I tend to use the black stuff that Lion sell (B Black Tape. Page 78). I also use it on free-standing photoframes. I have some frames that are 10+ years old and the tape is still clinging on. Bumpers are reccomended though, as it can mark walls.

[Not your average framer]

Hi Dermot,

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm aiming for something more cost effective here. My target market is for those customers of mine who live in 400 year old cottages with damp internal walls, or those who want something framed for the bathroom.

I sell them a sealed damp proof frame and my approach is quite simple. I tape around the front edge of the glass and around the back of one waterproof backing board with a waterproof duct tape. Unfortunately this tape doesn't look as professional as I would like, so I add a second waterproof backing board and want to seal it with a tape which looks suitably professional and won't deteriorate in a damp environment.

It's quick, easy, foolproof and adds extra value to the framing order. In my area lots of old farm buildings get converted into homes so I've got a nice ready market, but there's a limit to how much some customers will pay for this and as I rely on extras like this to boost my bottom line, I want it as cost effective as I can get.

I used to use white Correx (similar to Corroplast) with white duct tape, but now we have a recession just around the corner, I've decided not to stock so many different types of backing board as this should help my cash-flow. For this reason the Correx is being dropped from my stock inventory, hence the interest in Selisui tape.

[Merlin]

Mark
We use a 2mm Black Corex for backing if we are told that the frame is to go into a bathroom

We get it locally at about £4.00 for an 8ft x 4ft sheet. Cheaper than Corri Mk3

[Dermot]

Tyvek I reckon would only cost you a few pounds per frame, at max about £2.00 per square metre, you just stick it down over the back of the frame with permanent double sided tape.

Tyvek is moisture proof, in the US they use this method to seal the back of frames that are hung on the outer wall of timber framed houses, moisture penetration in some old house in the US is an issue for framers…..

As I said it is one of the recommendations for “preservation framing” I have used this method for frames that were to hang in old buildings in Ireland, the method was passed by the conservator I have worked with in Ireland……

It is very easy to attach, just cut the Tyvek oversize and lay it flat on your work table, put the tape all around the back of the frame and drop it on to the Tyvek then just trim the excess Tyvek….

Anyway just a suggestion that I really like for framing….in fact it will be my default method of sealing the back of a frame when I start framing again…..

[Roboframer]

I've considered the pros and cons of dustcovers vv backing boards and sealing tape over the last 3 years or so. IOW since I started using the forum and TFG.

The conclusions I have come up with is that

1. Unless the back is flush, or almost flush, I prefer backing board and tape - I can make that water resistant if needs be. Dustcovers can cockle and fingers etc can be poked through them - not so easily with tyvek or other non-paper products admittedly.

2. Even if it is flush the dustcover only does the same job as the tape anyway.

3. BUT - a nice dustcover looks the dog's

4. BUT - when I use one it will be for cosmetic reasons - it will be over a backed and sealed frame.

[Roboframer]

Tyvek I reckon would only cost you a few pounds per frame, at max about £2.00 per square metre, you just stick it down over the back of the frame with permanent double sided tape.

Grumble recommendations are glue 'white glue' whatever that is - PVA I guess. Dabs of double sided tape here and there maybe, just to hold in place while glue goes off. More permanent ("mechanical" bond vv "chemical" bond) and easier to remove - apparently.

................ when I start framing again…..

Please tell us more Dermot - new topic required - enquiring minds need to know. Well - this nosey barsteward does anyways!

[Dermot]

Tyvek will not cockle.....

The void if there is one should be filled with a lightweight type backing board.......

[Roboframer]

No need to fill a void if not using a dustcover - more materials - who accounts for that?

What customer would want to see (if you were totally up front and honest on your order forms) "Materials to make frame flush at the back that serves no other purpose but to suit my method of finishing said back'

(Sorry!)

And, God Knows we CRAVE voids - bring on the deep rebated frames - the problem we have is stuffing everything in to shallow rebates. Now and again I'll have far too much excess in the rebate, and, if I'm about to throw out the build-up of foam board offcuts - sure - I'll make it flush - but I've not charged for that time.

[Dermot]

Robo wrote

Grumble recommendations are glue 'white glue' whatever that is - PVA I guess. Dabs of double sided tape here and there maybe, just to hold in place while glue goes off. More permanent ("mechanical" bond vv "chemical" bond) and easier to remove - apparently.

Good point……..and possibly a personal choice of attaching the dust cover…I have tried both methods and worked out the way I do it by trial and error works for me……..though I do agree if you have to remove a cover attached with permanent adhesive it will pose a clean up issue….

[Dermot]

.

[Roboframer]

.

Áine - you have competition!

[markw]

I use the Sekisui tape with Corricor conservation. I doubt you could call it waterproof but I would consider it as water resistant. The tape sticks well to both frame and board but you have to make sure that its achieved good adhesion - I use a plastic "bone" to give it a slight burnish. The tape can be easily removed with a little heat leaving very little residue - if any. It sticks well to itself but you have to be careful to remove the first few feet of a new roll as it seems to have a silicone like finish to it. I have used this tape for several years now - I've had a few jobs back for reglazing over that time and am always keen to see how the tape performs. The tape certainly doesn't dry out and doesn't dissolve into a sticky mess.

I have used many tapes over the years - including for the majority of those years paper tape dispensed from a wetting applicator. Despite claims that paper tapes would stick to Corricor I found the results to be unpredictable - same with some frame back finishes. UK industrial tapes very kindly sent me a range of tapes to try - Sekisui was by far the best - with characteristics that I believe give a good finish for the majority of framing jobs. UK Industrial tapes can also supply a white version of the Sekisui tape.

Many paper tape advocates will claim that you just cant get the same thorough sealing with self adhesive tapes that you get with paper tapes - you dont get that "slide" on the tape that you need to get the tape right into the edge of the frame. As far as I am concerned I find that practised application of the Sekisui tape will give you as good finish as papertape but you have to use a bone to get the tape into the frame back before you smooth it out on the backing board.

[Dermot]

I tape around the front edge of the glass and around the back of one waterproof backing board with a waterproof duct tape.

My understanding is that most if not all duct tape is not liquid or gas proof…….in fact duct tape can be used for just about anything but it’s intended purpose…..

Duct tape no longer meets code to seal duct piping in the US and Canada, they have now moved to using a metal/aluminium tape…

That said I do like your approach to sealing a framing package….

[Not your average framer]

My understanding is that most if not all duct tape is not liquid or gas proof……

Hmmm, I was not aware of this.

The tape I use comes from my local hardware store and is sold as waterproof tape, suitable for indoor and outdoor use, etc. It looks like duct tape and the question is, how seriously can I take the word "waterproof". Having tested it myself, it does stick extremely securely to glass and is a real PITA trying to remove it.

I've sealed quite a few like this, without any complaints, so I assume things are o.k. It's a nice added value service and it doesn't take too much cost or effort to do it!

[Roboframer]

It's my understanding that the only true barriers are glass and metal. Anything else is a filter.

Something may be waterproof but not vapour proof - and that's exactly how Gortex works. You won't get wet in a Gortex jacket because it breathes and lets your own vapour out, but the holes doing that are smaller than water droplets.

[Dermot]

Link to a Hugh Phibbs article on sealing a frame package “Preservation Practices” Frame Sealing: Made Faster, Easier, Safer

http://www.pictureframingmagazine.com/p ... Faster.pdf

[Not your average framer]

Thanks Dermot,

That's a very informative article.