Archival mounting litho

[rmerre]

I am floating a lithograph on a piece of acid free foam core and then on a mat and framing it etc... What should i use to attach the litho on the foam core? Japanese glue or is that just for hinging. This is worth approx. $10,000 as well so i want to treat it as well as possible! Would i use the glue or what not just in the corners?

[Roboframer]

Welcome to The Framers' Forum!

Pass-through hinges made from pure Kozo with starch paste, but for that value, on to something better than 'acid free' foam core.

Given your location you'll get better results - especially regards suppliers etc, by registering on The Framers Grumble. http://www.thegrumble.com/




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[framejunkie]

I'll second what Roboframer says - anything worth that much should only be in contact with Museum grade board(cotton rag mountboard), and only adhere the least possible amount to it to be sure it won't fall off.

[rmerre]

Unfortunately i could only get this guy to do so much. Could you give me a quick 101 on how to do a pass-through hinge?

[Roboframer]

A pass through hinge - or an 'S' hinge has a small amount of one end attached to the artwork and the rest passed through a slit in the mounting board and attached to the back of it.

If the idea is to have a piece of foam board to create a floating EFFECT then once the artwork is mounted that mounting board can be attached to a slightly smaller piece of foam board and then the foam board attached to another mounting board.

However, if you are using hand made Japanese paper hinges and freshly cooked starch paste - that's a skill in itself. The edges of the paper should be feathered and there's a way to do that, how wide or narrow, how heavy should they be and how many of them?

The paste - how thick or runny should it be and how long should it be left to go off before applying?

All things that take time to learn - and not on valuable artwork or on anything at all not belonging to you.

Here's a great 101 on the very method you describe anyway ...

http://www.frametek.com/HTML/Articles/F ... nting.html



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[Nigel Nobody]

What the other guys said about not mounting onto foamboard is important. "Acid free" foamboard is a questionable product anyway. A piece of art of that value should not be touching this product at all and I wouldn't even include it in the frame package because of the fumes from the foam itself.

Using Alphamat or Rag adds very little to the cost.
I get very few pieces to frame that are worth that much and I have no trouble convincing customers to use the right materials for the job, by explaining and showing them what happens to paper that is framed with inferior materials!

[gesso]

If you don't want to go down the starch paste road just yet, it does take practice ....try getting some tape from arqadia~
http://www.arqadia.co.uk/commerceportal ... eaflet.pdf
item number 999 000 031 (it's at least credited with the FATG MUSEUM STANDARD)...
Again this takes alittle practice too.
best to use distilled water (not too much) to activate it and weigh it down for a few hours to get a good bond

All things that take time to learn - and not on valuable artwork or on anything at all not belonging to you.

Try getting hold of a variety of paper types and practice on them, whether paste or tape to see how they work best for you

[gesso]

This article may be of use to you to get you on the way with the topic of archival boards esp' if your handling works on paper.

http://www.superiorarchivalmats.com/sam/Article.html

and form board you can use;

http://www.preservationequipment.com/St ... Foam-Board

[Nigel Nobody]

Great article! Thanks for the link!

I need to print that and hang it in the shop for the punters to see and understand why my standard mat is Alphamat/Alpharag!